Used to be SAE 30 was cheaper, but doesn't really look like it any more. a multi viscosity engine oil works for engines that vary in rev range (like a car or truck) SAE 30 works for an engine that typically runs and steady rpms (like mowers or tractors)
I would simply use the cheapest one.
10w30 won't hurt your mower.
But like I said, it 'used' to be more expensive and now really isn't. So It used to be a waste to spend more to put fancier oil in there.
I find in several cases, the 10 w30 is less expensive than SAE 30 now…but I think its based on who carries it, and how much volume they move.
Used to be SAE 30 was cheaper, but doesn't really look like it any more. a multi viscosity engine oil works for engines that vary in rev range (like a car or truck) SAE 30 works for an engine that typically runs and steady rpms (like mowers or tractors)
I would simply use the cheapest one.
10w30 won't hurt your mower.
But like I said, it 'used' to be more expensive and now really isn't. So It used to be a waste to spend more to put fancier oil in there.
I find in several cases, the 10 w30 is less expensive than SAE 30 now but I think its based on who carries it, and how much volume they move.
5w30 Pennzoil in the 4 strokes, Lucas semi in the 2 strokes. May go to Pennzoil Platinum in mower I am dealing on......Kawasaki 6hp on a Gravely!. But I will read the manual when I buy it. Probably just stay with the regular Pennzoil so I don't have to carry another can of oil.
a multi viscosity engine oil works for engines that vary in rev range (like a car or truck) SAE 30 works for an engine that typically runs and steady rpms (like mowers or tractors)
sae30 or 10w30 or whatever weight is recommended by the manufacture. I run a specific air cooled race oil in my air cooled engines. You can usually find it in the motorcycle section of the auto parts store. I think Kawasaki mentioned minor oil consumption in the multi formulas is normal. I say that because some auto oils are not recommended with the valve train in my Kawasaki engine. And at only have a few engines that take less than 2 quarts it's not worth trying to save a dollar at oil change time. I do run purolator or wix filters from the auto store too.
sae30 or 10w30 or whatever weight is recommended by the manufacture. I run a specific air cooled race oil in my air cooled engines. You can usually find it in the motorcycle section of the auto parts store. I think Kawasaki mentioned minor oil consumption in the multi formulas is normal. I say that because some auto oils are not recommended with the valve train in my Kawasaki engine. And at only have a few engines that take less than 2 quarts it's not worth trying to save a dollar at oil change time. I do run purolator or wix filters from the auto store too.
What are you paying for that race oil:waving:
Are there any benefits. On oil filters I only use manufacture oil filters
In my opinion all after market oil filters are not built as well.
What are you paying for that race oil:waving:
Are there any benefits. On oil filters I only use manufacture oil filters
In my opinion all after market oil filters are not built as well.
Purolators and wix filters are really good filters from a lot of sources Ive meet and read online with pictures of course. Wix would be my choice. I run motorcraft oil and filters in my personal Ford vehicles. I don't know Amsoil air cooled oil is like 5 bucks a qt i think, so I might spend 2-3 more over bargain oil on a mower. The filters are usually cheaper than what the dealer has. Most dealers put on stupid rotary aftermarkets or stens I believe here not that I've seen bad things just to me they look cheaply made. My kawasakis have flat tappets for lifters so newer auto oil isn't designed for it. Keep in mind some race oils don't have the detergents that are in regular oils.
Mississippi
Doesnt matter if you use blended grade or straight 30. And as far as ambient temp, the blended like 10W-30 gives you more flexibility if your a homeowner like me that only changes oil once a year and uses the mower for other things and may want to run the engine below 32F/0C without concern. If you run straight 30 you should try not to run the engine below freezing.
It has nothing to do with RPM's, also I would stick with one type so you can top off as necessary without mixing different types. Last thing, the multi viscosity oils seem to "consume" a little quicker so be sure to check quantity at least every 5 hours or even weekly.
There is an interesting blurb in the Kawasaki manual that says something to the effect that the motor will comsume more oil if Multi grade oils are used and should be checked more regularly if so.
They sort of recommend both 30W and 10-30W and both are included on the dip stick. But the widest most common range of temperatures we mostly mow grass in is still adequately covered by straight 30W according to the chart they publish in their manual. From 32 to 96 degrees.
My Kawasaki manual lists 30W, 40w, 10w30 and 10w40 all as acceptable depending on the outside air temps. I have always used Mobil 1 10w30 but just switched to Rotella 5w40.
10w-30 or SAE 30 is fine. I tend to lean towards the thinner multi grades for the thinner viscosity at startup. Most of all of your engine wear is at startup or within the first 8 hrs of a oil change and that's a proven fact. Conventional DINO or HYDROCRACKED oil in stages of 1-3 are more dependent on shear additives to maintain a film to prevent metal to metal contact. All in all it's worth it to spend a little more now or a lot more down the road. I run 100% PAO/Ester oils in all my gasoline engines. Those types of oil virtually eliminate dry starts and you can go literally twice as long between changes with occasional oil analysis monitoring. Because I get it at cost I run kawasaki 10w40 synthetic in everything I own. The kawasaki oil is blended my motul which IMO is the best oil in the world. Never bought into the amsoil "snake oil" hype. In my diesel Motorhome I run kawasaki CJ-4 rated semi synthetic. Just FYI never run a oil that is reccomended for gasoline engines only in a diesel. Seen my fair share of oil caked in diesel oil pans because it didn't have the overbase detergent additives to keep acid and soot suspended in the oil. I had 12k hrs on my last Onan 5500 generator and my new 7.5kw generator has 2.5k hrs on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I'm a big time believer in not changing your oil too often, especially before the manufacture recommendation. Posted via Mobile Device
10w-30 or SAE 30 is fine. I tend to lean towards the thinner multi grades for the thinner viscosity at startup. Most of all of your engine wear is at startup or within the first 8 hrs of a oil change and that's a proven fact. Conventional DINO or HYDROCRACKED oil in stages of 1-3 are more dependent on shear additives to maintain a film to prevent metal to metal contact. All in all it's worth it to spend a little more now or a lot more down the road. I run 100% PAO/Ester oils in all my gasoline engines. Those types of oil virtually eliminate dry starts and you can go literally twice as long between changes with occasional oil analysis monitoring. Because I get it at cost I run kawasaki 10w40 synthetic in everything I own. The kawasaki oil is blended my motul which IMO is the best oil in the world. Never bought into the amsoil "snake oil" hype. In my diesel Motorhome I run kawasaki CJ-4 rated semi synthetic. Just FYI never run a oil that is reccomended for gasoline engines only in a diesel. Seen my fair share of oil caked in diesel oil pans because it didn't have the overbase detergent additives to keep acid and soot suspended in the oil. I had 12k hrs on my last Onan 5500 generator and my new 7.5kw generator has 2.5k hrs on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I'm a big time believer in not changing your oil too often, especially before the manufacture recommendation. Posted via Mobile Device
Mobil 1 is around 70% Pao with some esters
German Castrol edge at auto zone
Motul
Amsoil but not for the price
Bel-ray
No oil will usually be more than 90% pao due to poor seal compatibility so other additives are used. I like oils that have esters in them because they bond with the metal to eliminate dry starts where as regular Dino oil uses film strength. The film strength is the weakest at startup since the engine has been sitting and the pump has no pressure. Another good practice to start is to let a engine idle for 2 minutes or so before shutting it down. Running an engine at WOT and shutting it down without proper procedure causes oil COKING in the rings and that causes premature wear And oil consumption also. This practice is mainly used in diesel turbocharged engines but the practice on smaller engines doesn't hurt. Any synthetic oil with a JASO MA or JASO Ma2 rating is good, because of the extra anti wear additives for crankcase with clutches True synthetic oil doesn't break down and consume as easily in multi grades as Dino oil. But I know some law care places that get 3-4k hrs out of their engines with regular old oil they get in bulk but it's rare. Usually some failure happens or some preventative maintenance from a operator doesn't allow long engine life though Posted via Mobile Device
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