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Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by start2finish, Jun 6, 2006.
A project we are working on.
just a few more, we hope to have water in this by the end of the week.
the difference in soil in other parts of the country amazes me. we got it good here on LI. if you dig more than 3 feet, you usually hit sand. we have very little clay so digging is EASY.
pool looks good, update us when the water/liner is in
Explain the metal frame and liner concept! Is that the entire liner for the pool, or is there something else to it. We are all shotcrete and plaster/pebble tec here. Just curious on the differing building styles. Are you building the whole pool yourselves or just doing the digging?
I go to charlotte every year for nascar, always noticed the color of your dirt. Is it a clay based? How does your top soil run? We have river bottom real black, or field dirt brown.
we are doing the whole pool, as for the liner, the walls are assembled wit ha coping strip at the top to hold the liner. The bottom is dressed to specs and a 2 inch layer of portland cement and vermiculite is applied. This is between the liner and the dirt.
as for the clay is varies, most of the time it is red clay which is good for compaction, but there is sand 60 miles east of here, and topsoil can be 2 foot deep or 2 inches depends on any grading or location as well. We also have yellow clay which is useless and wet natured. oh yeah plenty of rock.
What are you hand digging for when you have a mini-x on the site ?
the hopper and transition walls require presicion +or- 1/2 inch. includes depth and location. they are on angles that the geometry of a hoe will not allow perfect digs. We use the mini-ex along side hand labor to simplify the job. In some of the photos the mini is busy on the other end of pool digging or the operator(myself) is in the truck hauling off the excess. I wish there was an easier way, but how the dirt is shaped is the shape of the finished project. Also the walls, bottom, and edges CANNOT be overdug. The excavation has to be exact. example the back wall of the hopper falls 5foot 3 inches over 4 feet. steep is not the word. distance from top of wall to flat bottom hopper is 8foot 3 inches. the vinyl liner is made to perfectly fit a finished and coated hole. If the hole is too shallow anywhere then there are wrinkles that will tarnish the job forever. if the hole is too deep then the liner is too small. Now the liner will stretch within reason, but you cannot stretch it in one spot with out making wrinkles. tedious work.
we are pouring the concrete collar for the pool walls in these photos. Now all is left is plumbing, coating the bottom and walls, and installing the liner. Hope to have this thing full of water and backfilled by the weekend.
And yes thats one of us in the oak tree!!!!!!
It looks like you are well on your way to a beautiful installed pool. It is a ton of work but they are worth it in the end, I installed one last year at my home the same size 18X36. The pool kit I used was manufactured by Fort Wayne Pools.
I poured my slab before I installed the bottom so we could keep the bottom clean when the liner was installed and it made it easier to wheel the mortor mix around to where it was needed. I had a little trouble with the plumbing the concrete guy filled one of my skimmers up with mud and we had a real mess brewing. Fortunately with a shop vac, water, and a little luck we were able to avoid clogged pipes. A couple of bucks for duck tape covering the skimmer pipe terminations is a great investment prior to concrete. I also backfilled my entire pool with 3/4 gravel to help support the plumbing and aid drainage around the pool. We also treated the pool bottom for termites. Believe it or not there are cases where they eat the vinyl liners. Sounds weird but I did not want to take and chances.
I have a Microsoft Project WBS "task list" file that details most of the steps amd cost. If you are interested PM me and I will be happy to send it out in an email.