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1st paver patio (criticism/advice certainly appreciated)

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by CastleRock1sttime, Jun 12, 2008.

  1. CastleRock1sttime

    CastleRock1sttime LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    Here is my first attempt at a paver patio. Obviously I am only finished with the wall which will be the majority of the edging (the rest will be the foundation of my house). The 3/4" minus is sitting in the street in front of my house which I will be bringing in this weekend. I am planning on doing approx. 6" of 3/4" minus (compacted in 3" lifts) for the base and then an inch of sand. Please offer any criticism/advice you see fit. Couple of questions:
    1. The wall is almost perfectly level all the way around (except for the two sides that go up to the house which have 2% fall away from the house for drainage). About 4 (out of the 90) capstones teeter a little bit and aren't in high traffic areas. I haven't glued any of the capstones down yet. Will these teetering capstones create an issue for me?
    2. As you can see, I have put geotextile down before the base. I ran it up the back of the wall and tucked it under the capstones. The reason I ran it up the wall was to prevent any of the base or sand from washing out through the wall over time. Was I correct in doing this? What have you guys done before (if anything) to prevent washout through the wall from occuring?
    3. I will have to build 3 steps up to my back door (28" fall from threshold to top of patio). The first step from the house will be a 3' by 3' landing (dictated by the wall coming out from the foundation), plus I think a landing right outside the door is a good idea anyways. Should I use the same block that I used for the retaining wall for the steps? I was planning on using two blocks stacked with a capstone on top for each step(the blocks are 4" tall and the capstone is 2" tall). I was planning on burying the first course of blocks for the stairs 3" for stability. That would leave me with 1" of exposed step for the first course, stack a 4" block on top of that and then the 2" capstone on top of that for my 7" rise. Does this sound like the right way to go about it?

    I can't get away from this website because most of you guys (and gals) do extremely good work and I have gotten some good ideas. The patio is approimately 750 square feet. Would you have tried to tackle this for your first job? I have confidence I can get it done, but am not so confident the patio will pass the test of time.

    thanks in advance for any advice/criticism.





  2. BrandonV

    BrandonV LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,215

    is that geotext or weed block? i've not seen such small sheets before, make sure you overlap it good. also whynot run the downspout down staight and use sch40 under the patio/wall instead. good job though
  3. iowa

    iowa LawnSite Senior Member
    from NW IA
    Posts: 305

    looks like your off to a good start, but i'd use real geotex though.
  4. nobagger

    nobagger LawnSite Gold Member
    from Pa
    Posts: 3,065

    looks sharp! Come over to my house, I cant find a concrete guy to finish my patio for weeks now.
  5. northjerseymonster

    northjerseymonster LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    Looks pretty good.
    I agree you could have run the downspout through the paver deck daylighted through the wall face as well.

    After you put your base layer in I would also run the geotextile up along the foundation and top course of wall extending 6-12 inches under the bedding sand(like an L shape. This will prevent sand washout in the seam against the foundation and wall edge where you can't compact. Water loves to get in there over time and the pavers could begin to tip in.

    What is that Pavestone Riverstone?

  6. CastleRock1sttime

    CastleRock1sttime LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    Thanks for the replys. The fabric I am using is some very heavy duty landscape fabric (I understand the specs are different than geotextile). I wasn't going to use anything at all considering I have well draining sandy soil for my subbase, but decided I would at least use the heaviest landscape fabric I could get my hands on. I overlapped the fabric a good 8" at the joints and since I have some left I am going to run another layter of the fabric over this layer (I will probably straddle the joints with the next layer). The landscape fabric was laid up along the back of the wall and up the foundation since these pictures were taken to prevent exactly what northjerseymonster mentioned in his post. The wall units and capstone are from a company called Oldcastle. I think they are called chisel wall (charcoal/tan). The pavers I will be using are a "four cobble" paver by the same company, oldcastle. I also agree about the downspout and actually thought about that, however, I wondered what type of pipe to use when running the downspout under the patio. Wouldn't most of the flexible ribbed PVC or ABS be too soft to hold up to the weight of the base (especially compacted on top of it) and pavers? I will obviously paint the relocated downspout to match my house (I'm sure the HOAnazi's will be after me at some point). Since you guys have replied, I have one more question:
    1. This patio is being done on a newly constructed house (built last year and I've lived in it since October of last year (approx. 7 months)). We have lived through a full winter in Colorado with a decent amount of precipitation. However, I am a little concerned that the foundation wall backfill for my house wasn't compacted very well (as is the case with most new houses). Am I going to have a lot of problems with settling in the future? I don't mind a little settling (that is why I chose a flexible patio system), but should I have overexcavated more than the 10" I did?
  7. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 863

    chances are you will see settling, usually up to 3 years later depending on precip and type of fill. only way to avoid is to completely dig out fill and start over. since its yours though just enjoy your patio. Looks good so far.

    oh, how will water drain out of it? --after rereading your info I see your running the top of the patio to the top of the wall.

    I would consider pouring a concrete form in replace of that steel window well or use the wall block, it will just look better.
  8. zemzabob

    zemzabob LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 321

    I think it looks great so far nice job.
  9. ed2hess

    ed2hess LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,190

    Patio looks small for that size house and if they ever want to build a cover it will be difficult to follow those curves.
  10. lawnMaster5000

    lawnMaster5000 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 589

    Things look like you are off to a good start. I agree with the others saying to run your downspout under your patio.

    Also, in order to get to your 28 inches for your door I would use 4 steps seven inches tall. Your ten inch riser steps are going to be way too tall and very uncomfortable to walk on. Seven inches is even a little tall, but it will work well for your 18 inches of rise.

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