2005 Scag Turf Tiger STT61A-27KA Jerky hydro drives??

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by snow4me, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. snow4me

    snow4me LawnSite Member
    Male, from Barrington IL
    Posts: 119

    I'm looking to possibly buy one of these units with approximately 1,300 hours on it and it has the advantage deck. When I tested it on asphalt yesterday the hydros felt really sensitive and jerky. No matter how slowly I tried to move the sticks the machine would either accelerate really quickly lifting the wheels off the ground if I was too quick or locking up the wheels coming to a stop. It was also out of synch (one wheel moving faster than the other in full forward position causing it to pull to the right).

    Is this a sign of worn out hydro pumps or something else?

    What is everyone's overall opinion on these units?

    Is the 27hp L/C Kawasaki engine strong enough for this machine?

    I mow 3-5 acre estates so I need a reliable large deck unit.

    My Exmark Lazer Z 60" with a 35hp B&S VanGuard kept going through mule belts last season so I'm thinking about giving the Turf Tiger a try due to the shaft drive to the deck.
     
  2. orangemower

    orangemower LawnSite Silver Member
    from pa
    Posts: 2,773

    Do the levers move easy just sitting there with it not running? It might be the dampers are worn on it. The pulling can be adjusted to track straight.
     
  3. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Posts: 4,225

    Dampners are one thing to look at. Also if a dump valve is slightly open could be a result also. But most likely a hydro going out, they don't need adjustment unless something is wearing out on them. I would expect to replace a side (pump and motor) for $1000 before too long.

    For the 27 kawi, I own a couple. They have enough power for most cutting conditions. If you are brush hogging/etc it will bog and you will need to slow down. Its a very reliable motor.
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  4. orangemower

    orangemower LawnSite Silver Member
    from pa
    Posts: 2,773

    djagusch, I mentioned the adjustment because it's a used mower. Anyone could have messed with the linkage.
     
  5. djagusch

    djagusch LawnSite Platinum Member
    from MN
    Posts: 4,225

    I understand that, but why would the guy mess with it? I have tt with over 3,000 hrs and the only time the tracking got off was right before the hydro went out.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  6. sven1277

    sven1277 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 636

    its probably the dampeners on the steering arms. Check them for leakage at the seal. Take them off and inspect them. I found they usually go about the same time and the machine is tough to operate smoothly when they do.
     
  7. snow4me

    snow4me LawnSite Member
    Male, from Barrington IL
    Posts: 119

    I'll take a look at the dampeners...these should have zero slack in them right?

    Thanks for the input guys...I don't mow overgrown lawns so the 27hp Kaw should be good for me.

    Any ideas on how many hours you can get out of a 27hp L/C Kawasaki engine thats been properly maintained? I'm assuming that a L/C engine will last longer due to more efficient cooling right?
     
  8. orangemower

    orangemower LawnSite Silver Member
    from pa
    Posts: 2,773

    The dampers are like a shock. The only time it would have slack in it would be if the damper is broken or the ball ends are worn out. If the oil leaks out of them, they are useless and the controls will move real easy.

    The l/c engine tend to last longer yes.
     
  9. snow4me

    snow4me LawnSite Member
    Male, from Barrington IL
    Posts: 119

    Followup... I bid on and won the municipal auction for this unit and the damper on the right side was shot so I ordered a pair of replacements to start with two equally fresh units and I'll put the old good one on the shelf as a spare.

    I also found one bad spindle bearing so I'm considering replacing all 3 with Oregon part #82-325 which I found locally for $39.95 each. I figure why mess around just replace all 3 at once and keep things balanced...$120 is a small cost for peace of mind.

    The deck belt is showing signs of dry rot cracking and I'm considering going with the Oregon equivalent here as well. While I'm at it I'll probably replace the deck drive belt and the pump drive belt since they also are looking dry and cracked. Anyone think that I should spend the extra $ and buy OEM belts or are the Oregon belts of similar quality?

    How about blades OEM vs. Oregon again?
     

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