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23hp Kawasaki bending push rods!! WHAT TO DO NEXT??

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by rjtlawncare, Dec 5, 2012.

  1. rjtlawncare

    rjtlawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    It's a 23hp kawasaki FH680v-AS08. It's on a 52 DD Hydro Ferris Walkbehind. No Hour Meter. Got it used from a twp. and the mainatance guy said it was well taken care of. It looked clean, and when I got it home and got it off the trailer it sound like it was running on on cylinder. IT WAS/ NOW I'M PISSED

    Opened the valve cover and the exhaust push rod was bent, so I replaced it with a new one and put it back together. Before I could get it to full throttle it dropped that cylinder. Opened it up again and again BENT PUSH ROD.

    So next I put the push rod in and turned the engine over by hand to feel if the tappets had any movement to them. I was told that is a way of checking the cam for damage. They both moved but there travel was very minimial. So I moved on to the valves. They both moved but the exhaust was a little hard to push down. I'm guessing that is the reason for the bending of the push rod.

    Now for the next step I removed the head to inspect the valves, they closed and opened ok, but like I said the exhaust was a little stiffer. No leaks

    Well things got busy so I had to put these project off untill NOW. So yesterday I go and start messing around with the head. Clean some of the carbon off the valves, push the valves in and out. AND NOW THE EXHAUST VALVE WOULD'T EVEN MOVE. So I clean her up alittle and got her moving again.


    I'VE READ THAT Kawasaki has you replace the heads, gaskets, etc if it is pulling the guides. What guides are they talking about/where are they located???

    I've also read that If it is a sticky valve they tell you to pull the heads and run a 6mm reamer through the guides. Then install new Valves. Can someone explain this reamer process???

    The pic is of the exhaust valve on the head. Looks like there's a white chalkly and rust build up inside the port.




  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Looks like water has sat in that port at one time rusting and pitting the valve stem, Cleaning the port out and replacing the valve will likely solve the issue.

    Oil the new valve stem before installing.......

    That cylinder/piston doesn't look too good, Can you post a better/closer shot ?
  3. rjtlawncare

    rjtlawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    Anybody know where these guides are?
    How do you reem the guides? What does this accomplish??
    Can you just clean the valve stems or do you have to get new WHEN THEY ARE STICKY??
    Is it just wiser to get a new head/used head. There's a used head for $70 on ebay. Should I go that route???

    Please help
  4. rjtlawncare

    rjtlawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    Thanks Restrorob for the reply,

    I will take a closer pic of that piston. The top is covered with carbon but the cylinder walls have no scratches or pits. It looks good inside.

    Quick Question: When i had it running(running on one cylinder) and shut it off after about 3 min of run time. I would find that the side that was bending the push rods, THAT SPARK PLUG WOULD BE FULL OF OIL(Dripping). WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?????
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Ahhh..... I can hear ya without shouting !

    That cylinder was not running due to the non-opening exhaust valve, The rings/cylinder and piston was still being lubricated with oil. If the cylinder had been running (exhaust valve functioning) this oil would have been burned off in the cycle and exhausted.

    If you want to spend money on a new head assembly or someone's used junk go ahead, I said before...... Install a new valve much cheaper and be done with it;


    Spray carb & choke cleaner in the guide while working the new valve in and out a few times, Doing this will clean any carbon build-up out of the guide. Oil the new valve stem then put it all back together. Clean the carbon off the top of the piston with a wire brush then Slap it all back together.

    I've NEVER had to ream a used guide, Only new ones after installing. Sounds like your making this issue out to be more than it really is......
  6. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,255

    'Cause,A. the piston is either got a hole in it,B.the head gasket is blown
    ( though the pic shows no indication) Is the head in the pic, the one with the oily plug? It don't look like it! Or C. the bore is worn, or D. the rings are worn or broke.
  7. rjtlawncare

    rjtlawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    Sounds good I will get that valve and all new gaskets. Is there any dealers who sell off brand parts or do you have to get Kawasaki Parts. Is there any cross overs for these valves and gaskets that are cheaper in price?

    Any Help Would Be Great. Thanks!
  8. BigFish

    BigFish LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,255

    Just stick with Kaw. parts ya cheap baaasted! C'mon, only 4 valves and couple of gaskets! Besides, I don't think any bootleg parts are avail. Try GOOGLE.
  9. rjtlawncare

    rjtlawncare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    Hey Now These are tuff times, Everybody should watch where there throwing their money. I just thought/hear that John Deere might make parts that cross over (They use alot of Kawasaki's on their mowers) that might to cheaper.

    Google? What is this google you speak of?:rolleyes::rolleyes: Just wanted to know if anyone known of any good part suppliers.
  10. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    And you were wanting to replace the whole head ???

    Deere's Kawi parts cheaper ? BAAAHAHAHA !!!!

    The place I linked (TEW) sells that valve cheaper than I can as a Kawi dealer.....

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