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23hp Kawasaki bending push rods!! WHAT TO DO NEXT??

35K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  rjtlawncare 
#1 ·
It's a 23hp kawasaki FH680v-AS08. It's on a 52 DD Hydro Ferris Walkbehind. No Hour Meter. Got it used from a twp. and the mainatance guy said it was well taken care of. It looked clean, and when I got it home and got it off the trailer it sound like it was running on on cylinder. IT WAS/ NOW I'M PISSED

Opened the valve cover and the exhaust push rod was bent, so I replaced it with a new one and put it back together. Before I could get it to full throttle it dropped that cylinder. Opened it up again and again BENT PUSH ROD.

So next I put the push rod in and turned the engine over by hand to feel if the tappets had any movement to them. I was told that is a way of checking the cam for damage. They both moved but there travel was very minimial. So I moved on to the valves. They both moved but the exhaust was a little hard to push down. I'm guessing that is the reason for the bending of the push rod.

Now for the next step I removed the head to inspect the valves, they closed and opened ok, but like I said the exhaust was a little stiffer. No leaks

Well things got busy so I had to put these project off untill NOW. So yesterday I go and start messing around with the head. Clean some of the carbon off the valves, push the valves in and out. AND NOW THE EXHAUST VALVE WOULD'T EVEN MOVE. So I clean her up alittle and got her moving again.

IS IT TIME FOR A NEW HEAD OR CAN THIS VALVE BE FIXED???

I'VE READ THAT Kawasaki has you replace the heads, gaskets, etc if it is pulling the guides. What guides are they talking about/where are they located???

I've also read that If it is a sticky valve they tell you to pull the heads and run a 6mm reamer through the guides. Then install new Valves. Can someone explain this reamer process???

The pic is of the exhaust valve on the head. Looks like there's a white chalkly and rust build up inside the port.

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#2 ·
Looks like water has sat in that port at one time rusting and pitting the valve stem, Cleaning the port out and replacing the valve will likely solve the issue.

Oil the new valve stem before installing.......

That cylinder/piston doesn't look too good, Can you post a better/closer shot ?
 
#3 ·
Anybody know where these guides are?
How do you reem the guides? What does this accomplish??
Can you just clean the valve stems or do you have to get new WHEN THEY ARE STICKY??
Is it just wiser to get a new head/used head. There's a used head for $70 on ebay. Should I go that route???

Please help
 
#4 ·
Looks like water has sat in that port at one time rusting and pitting the valve stem, Cleaning the port out and replacing the valve will likely solve the issue.

Oil the new valve stem before installing.......

That cylinder/piston doesn't look too good, Can you post a better/closer shot ?
Thanks Restrorob for the reply,

I will take a closer pic of that piston. The top is covered with carbon but the cylinder walls have no scratches or pits. It looks good inside.

Quick Question: When i had it running(running on one cylinder) and shut it off after about 3 min of run time. I would find that the side that was bending the push rods, THAT SPARK PLUG WOULD BE FULL OF OIL(Dripping). WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?????
 
#5 ·
THAT SPARK PLUG WOULD BE FULL OF OIL(Dripping)
Ahhh..... I can hear ya without shouting !

That cylinder was not running due to the non-opening exhaust valve, The rings/cylinder and piston was still being lubricated with oil. If the cylinder had been running (exhaust valve functioning) this oil would have been burned off in the cycle and exhausted.

If you want to spend money on a new head assembly or someone's used junk go ahead, I said before...... Install a new valve much cheaper and be done with it;

http://tewarehouse.com/120057004

Spray carb & choke cleaner in the guide while working the new valve in and out a few times, Doing this will clean any carbon build-up out of the guide. Oil the new valve stem then put it all back together. Clean the carbon off the top of the piston with a wire brush then Slap it all back together.

I've NEVER had to ream a used guide, Only new ones after installing. Sounds like your making this issue out to be more than it really is......
 
#6 ·
Thanks Restrorob for the reply,

I will take a closer pic of that piston. The top is covered with carbon but the cylinder walls have no scratches or pits. It looks good inside.

Quick Question: When i had it running(running on one cylinder) and shut it off after about 3 min of run time. I would find that the side that was bending the push rods, THAT SPARK PLUG WOULD BE FULL OF OIL(Dripping). WHY IS THIS HAPPENING?????
'Cause,A. the piston is either got a hole in it,B.the head gasket is blown
( though the pic shows no indication) Is the head in the pic, the one with the oily plug? It don't look like it! Or C. the bore is worn, or D. the rings are worn or broke.
 
#9 ·
Just stick with Kaw. parts ya cheap baaasted! C'mon, only 4 valves and couple of gaskets! Besides, I don't think any bootleg parts are avail. Try GOOGLE.
Hey Now These are tuff times, Everybody should watch where there throwing their money. I just thought/hear that John Deere might make parts that cross over (They use alot of Kawasaki's on their mowers) that might to cheaper.

Google? What is this google you speak of?:rolleyes::rolleyes: Just wanted to know if anyone known of any good part suppliers.
 
#10 ·
These are tuff times, Everybody should watch where there throwing their money.
And you were wanting to replace the whole head ???

Deere's Kawi parts cheaper ? BAAAHAHAHA !!!!

The place I linked (TEW) sells that valve cheaper than I can as a Kawi dealer.....
 
#11 ·
And you were wanting to replace the whole head ???

Deere's Kawi parts cheaper ? BAAAHAHAHA !!!!

The place I linked (TEW) sells that valve cheaper than I can as a Kawi dealer.....
That's all good, I just didn't want to buy all new gaskets and valve stems and then come to find that the guide in the head has moved and THEN BUY A HEAD AND GO THROUGH THE HOLE PROCESS OVER. Just Sayin. Aren't these Kawasaki's know to overheat and move GUIDES??

Also when installing new valves do you have to lap them to the seat/head??OR are they set/lapped and ready to go?? If you do lap them to a head and that head is no good can you then lap them to another head OR DO YOU NEED to get new valves?

Once again thanks to restro and all he does for people on this site. Without your time and commitment alot of people in this industry would left in the dark. You are a great American:usflag::usflag::usflag:
 
#12 ·
then come to find that the guide in the head has moved
I'm very observant in most cases, Your pics show the guide is in the proper location and hasn't moved.

One valve, One head gasket and two each intake and exhaust gaskets should get this back together. That's if you didn't pull the other head, Kawi doesn't offer gasket "sets" to my knowledge, Yes you can lightly lap the new valve in......
 
#13 ·
That's all good, I just didn't want to buy all new gaskets and valve stems and then come to find that the guide in the head has moved and THEN BUY A HEAD AND GO THROUGH THE HOLE PROCESS OVER. Just Sayin. Aren't these Kawasaki's know to overheat and move GUIDES??

Also when installing new valves do you have to lap them to the seat/head??OR are they set/lapped and ready to go?? If you do lap them to a head and that head is no good can you then lap them to another head OR DO YOU NEED to get new valves?

Once again thanks to restro and all he does for people on this site. Without your time and commitment alot of people in this industry would left in the dark. You are a great American:usflag::usflag::usflag:
You can re-use the lapped valves, no problem! You can use a red magic marker( I use machinist's blue dye) to color the lapped in band and just lightly lap again. I don't think I would re-use the valve stem seal though.
 
#14 ·
I'm very observant in most cases, Your pics show the guide is in the proper location and hasn't moved.
Well I took the complete valve train off and clean the Head(almost looks new). Got the new parts in today and will start the assembly later. Just have a few questions before I begin.

1. When looking at the guides from the topside(with the valves out so you can both sides), the exhaust valve looks like it is pushed into the head alittle bit more then the intake valve. When you turn it around and look at the guides from the rock arm side you can see that the exhaust valve has moved (millimeter movement) from the different color on the guides(heat marks/rings around the guide). Is this normal? Can I use this head?

2. Just so I understand, The new valves just need to be lapped and their ready to go? I only say this b/c I read or saw somewhere that people grind the ends down?? If this needs to be done, please explain how and why?

3. Head Gaskets only go on one way or is there a topside and bottom side??
Do you guys put any oil on the gasket to mate it to the head before installing??

Thanks for the help, and I'll keep you posted on work.
 
#15 ·
1...a few millimeters shouldn't harm anything...make sure the valve slides easily in the guide..
2..lap the valves..it should leave a dull area on the valve faces and seats..
You don't want to grind the valve stem. ...that's only done on non adjustable valvetrains..L head engines.
3...Make sure the block and head are clean and dry...Never grease a gasket..they'll never seal..
 
#16 ·
1...a few millimeters shouldn't harm anything...make sure the valve slides easily in the guide..
2..lap the valves..it should leave a dull area on the valve faces and seats..
You don't want to grind the valve stem. ...that's only done on non adjustable valvetrains..L head engines.
3...Make sure the block and head are clean and dry...Never grease a gasket..they'll never seal..
Thanks slapper I'm off :walking: to get this thing running. I hope it purrrrrrsssss
 
#17 ·
Well it's all back together and running, BUT HERE'S WHAT IT'S DOING:::

1.The head I replaced sounds alot louder than the other head. What I mean is you can hear the valves as they come back down onto their seats. It's like a knocking noise and not a clanging noise that you would hear if the rockers where loose. When I gapped the valves at .004 the gauge was very tight maybe to tight. :confused::confused:Questions: Should the gauge slide through or be hard to pass through when checking the lash? If you hear a knocking noise is that a sign of the rocker arms being on to tight?

2. When I got it all back together, the side that I replaced was firing and the other side would not fire. So I switch coils from one side to the other. It now fires on both sides, but the the side I replaced is alot stronger. What I mean is if I would take the boot off of the new side you can here the engine start to run on one cylinder(and it will die if it's at low trottle). It sounds very weak/like it running on one cylinder. Now if I take off the old side and let it run on the new side, there is really no difference in sound and the engine doesn't die at low throttle. This is when I can really hear the knocking of the valves hitting their seats.:confused::confused:Questions: Should I replace coils? Should I pull the other head and do a valve job?

3. When it's running the new side get's hotter faster than the old side. LIke when I touch the rocker covers the new side is hot after about 30 seconds and the old side takes about 2 mins to get to the temp of the new side.:confused::confused:

4. It surges a little bit to, but I think that the fuel pump is on it's way out. There's alittle fuel in the filter but it not full. If I pull the choke about 1/4 of the way it will smooth out alittle, but you can still hear the surge. :confused::confused: New fuel pump? Gov. Adjustment? Clean carb?

As a side note, this was all done with the top cover off. Also I notices that the cover screw(the screw that attaches the cover to the metal side cover) just above the regulator would spark like something was not grounded.
 
#19 ·
Update Update Update

Ok I replaced the coils and get spark on both sides. QUESTION: Why when at low throttle does the engine die when I pull the spark boot on one side, but will stay running when I pull the other side????
QUESTION: This does not happen when at full throttle, (I can pull either side and it stays running)???

It runs like it missing and backfires like a dragster. QUESTION: With the air filter off and me putting me four fingers over the carb opening(leaving little room for air) it will smooth out. Why is this??? Does it have something to do with the carb be externally or internally vented? Do I need a new air filter or can I some how clog the air filter that I have now with say 3 PRE-FILTERS????

Please Advise, looking for the big 4: Resto, piston, bigfish, or any mower mech.

HELP HELP HELP:confused::confused::confused:
 
#20 ·
I have also notice it is hard to start/turn over, like there is to much compression. Could this be the flywheel key being sheared some what???
WHAT I HAVE DONE::
Need to mention that the battery is dead. The solenoid is starting to make the snapping/ticking noise when key is turned. I jump it everytime. I go to start it (400 cranking amps starter) and it will turn 1/4 turn and then stops, I then right away hand force it around and it will then turn and start. The key is turned to the start position all this time. Again is this a flywheel key issue. With the ticking in the solenoid is it time for a new one or is this just what happens when the battery dies??

Help please this this is driving me mad.
 
#21 ·
1. do a compression test. make sure that in specs...
2. if both in specs go on to the carb.

as for the loud noise, running hotter, hard to turn over to me it seems you have more internal engine problems going on but a compression test is a good place to start
 
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