30' bore with 255sx?

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by jcom, Jul 29, 2005.

  1. jcom

    jcom LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 791

    O.k. all you pipe pulling gurus that visit this site.

    Will my 255sx bore a 30' driveway? I understand the angle of bore would be very critical and we would have it almost level before we started.

    If my machine will not do the bore, I would have to include extra costs in the estimate.

    Any ideas are very much appreciated.

    John :rolleyes:
     
  2. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

    What sort of driveway? What sort of soil? Do you have a backreamer? How large of a pipe do you need to pull back?
     
  3. sps2868

    sps2868 LawnSite Member
    from ATL, GA
    Posts: 91

    Even if your machine does the bore you should charge for it, that isn't something that everyone can do or normally does. I would charge extra. Because it is out of the ordinary.

    Just because you own a machine that does a job doesn't mean you shouldn't charge for that job.

    Consider the wire tracker. If you own one don't you usually charge for using? It is exactly the same you own a machine that can bore(????) should you do it for free?? I think not. If you will do it for free I can think of 2 jobs you could do free for me if your machine can do boring.... :rolleyes:
     
  4. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    Okay Jon, it's not a question of will but should. A boring machine doesn't need to be that strong. The bit does most of the work. When I was in DFW, we did a lot of boring with what they called a "wonder under". It looked a lot like a leaf blower w/ a winch on it. Is the drive concrete? or black top? NEVER, I'll say it again, NEVER bore black top unless you want to fix it. If the drive is concrete, are you clear from the resposiblity of causing it to crack? The rods we use on a DW or case to bore with don't give you a lot of control. That bit hits a rock, and it will either porpoise or dive. Nothing in this world like digging 6-8' to get to the rod after a 30-40' bore, and pulling it back and going again doesn't help cuz your hitting a big solid something half way through.
     
  5. jcom

    jcom LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 791

    I would be using our standard 2" boring bit and I would be boring under concrete.

    I would say the soil would be mostly clay.

    Other estimates the owner has received have been very very high from what I understand.

    Thanks for the input.

    John
     
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,794

    Over here the average price for directional boring is $12 a foot.

    I have a 410, but I don't have the rotowitch attachement. How much did it set you back?
     
  7. JB926

    JB926 LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 150

    if its a blacktop driveway forget about it it always seems to lift the driveway a good amount. we use the 255 alot to drill but if its thirty foot I world go with a air mole. I have moled a 40 ft drive with 2 " pipe. Just make sure for every 10 ft you mole dig down 1 ft at your starting point and the mole always tends to come up. Since you a going under concrete you should have no problem with lift on the driveway
     
  8. Mdirrigation

    Mdirrigation LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,766

    Asphalt or concrete , all we do in asphalt is dig 18 inches deep . 30 feet shouldnt be a problem , the harder the dirt the slower you go. A clause in our contract " bores under asphalt or concrete may cause cracking or heaving and is done at the risk of the property owner"
     
  9. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

    You have to be very careful boring asphalt, and understand that you might have to dig to down a ways, but it is borable. Like mdirrigation said, start 18" deep, and angle the approach down at least 5-7 degrees.

    I guarantee against damage during install, but not down the road. I use a range of bits and backreamers and have won a lot of bids for being able to do things others thought was too hard.

    Bore work should always be charged at a high rate. Especially tough shots. Every irrigation bid that includes bore shots should be calculated extremely thoroughly beforehand, and also should be padded with an insurance margin.

    Builders and the like give me general work at rates over 100/hr because the only alternative is to get the directional crew out there.
     

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