62" Toro wont start

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by birddseedd, Mar 9, 2013.

  1. ricky86

    ricky86 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,763

    There's a brown wire that comes from the key switch. It goes to the start relay. The start relay must be activated or the pump won't work.(It completes the ground on the coil side of the relay). The brown wire goes to the circut side of the start relay. When activated, the relay switchs voltage to the blue wire, which in turn goes to the starter sol, which activates it. Trace those wires(brown and blue) from the switch to the POST on the sol. Key switch has to be in the start position. If you have voltage to the start relay's brown wire and not to the blue, and the terminals are intact, good chance it's the relay. Don't match the relay. They look the same but some have a different amp rating. All the info is on the relay. You have to check one circut at a time, and perform a voltage drop test on each. That's the best way to check for dirty , corroded connections. Or would you like to continue the Toro bashing with a dealer that's trying to help you?
     
  2. birddseedd

    birddseedd LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,114

    I was unaware i was toro bashing. i did mention in 2 posts that i like scag. i never once said anything negative about toro. i really do love my mower. once working well itl make a world of difference in my business. it cannot compare to the exmark/toro i rented last year. brand new. felt like i had a jet engine on teh back of that thing.

    bigger handles too. i found that quite comfortable.
     
  3. piston slapper

    piston slapper LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,240

    You're right again...Ricky..
    Matching up a relay is a recipe for mistakes...
    You have to know what you are matching up..
    Personally...I have never seen a grass cutter ....that didn't know how to read and understand a wiring schematic...ever successfully troubleshoot a Kohler EFI..
    The engine wasn't designed to be worked on by the end user..
     
  4. birddseedd

    birddseedd LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,114

    when it comes to the relays I'll just put voltage to it and measure the continuity.
     
  5. ricky86

    ricky86 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,763

    Sorry, didn't mean to jump on you. No you didn't say anything.
     
  6. fatboynormmie

    fatboynormmie LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,076

    Never trust continuity always trust voltage drop.(Example)You could have a battery cable that has 100 strands of copper in it and if all the strands were cut except one you would read continuity and think you are ok.WRONG!!!! Try to actually push amperage through it and it won't happen.

    Terminal 86 and 87 on an automotive relay are the coil circuit (small wires small amps) = control side

    Terminal 87/87a (one normally open / normally closed) and terminal 30 = common .This is the power or contactor side of the relay .(heavy wires heavy amps).So one of the heavy wires will be attached to either 87 or 87a and the other will be attached to 30

    You can pull the relay out and put your meter across the female plugs 85 and 86 in connector and turn key or start to check your getting +bv .

    Also you can jump 87/87a and 30 while the relay is out with a heavy jumper to turn on circuit this will check that supply wiring is ok.

    Sounds like Ricky is leading you on the right track good luck keep us posted.
     
  7. Wright Lawn

    Wright Lawn LawnSite Member
    Male, from Rock Hill, SC
    Posts: 54

    Ricky, I was the guy bashing Toro. 800 hrs. on my unit, 3 hydro pomps, 5 (yes five) ignition switches, 3 drive belts, coils had to be replaced twice, fuel gauge has NEVER worked & it's been replaced 3 times. Throttle cable broke after 500 hrs., choke cable broke right after that. My trailer and equipment are garage/barn kept, so the only time they're in the elements is when I'm using them. Yea, it's all been covered under warranty but, my down time in just two years is somewhere around 12 - 16 weeks. I'm solo and take very good care of everything I have. Toro is not commercial grade, I don't care what anybody says!
     
  8. birddseedd

    birddseedd LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,114

    I didnt do anythign. my car broke and i caint fix it till im willing to take off the condensor. who the heck puts a coil pack behidn the engine where its impossible to get to?

    i swear im leaving gm. might as well. no point in buying chevi when they are built out of the country anyway
     
  9. ricky86

    ricky86 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,763

    I had a S-10 with what I think had a lifter problem. One look at the service manual, it got traded on a nice new shiney Hyundai Touring. I'm happy as a pig in s**t.
     
  10. birddseedd

    birddseedd LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,114

    test 1:
    negative meter wire on negative of battery.

    positive meter wire on the connector going INTO the relay (brown wire traced from switch to a relay) which would be the part of the circuit BEFORE the relay.

    i get 12.3V

    test2:
    negative meter wire on the negative of the battery

    positive meter wire on the blue wire connector from the relay which would after the relay.

    the result is 0.03 mostly. got 0.15 once.


    oh, and the relay is a ford. go figure.

    this would mean not much of a voltage drop with the relay? relay being good?
     

Share This Page