8000 gen 3 vs 4 vs 5

Discussion in 'Magna-Matic' started by CQ_DX, May 7, 2012.

  1. CQ_DX

    CQ_DX LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 67

    Hi Gerd,

    I see the generation 5 is now available. I have a few questions:
    Having a gen 3, you may recall my suggesting a quick wheel change method. Nice to see this evolving.

    The gen 5 looks to be an improvement over the 4, however I wonder just what adapting a gen 3 to 4 would really do for me, or even moving to a gen 5, as I see a trade-off in time - unless I'm missing something.

    It does seem wheel changing with a gen 4 adaptor kit or using a gen 5 will be faster than with the gen 3 - but it seems to come at the expense of no longer being able to easily clean the adjustment threaded rod and aluminum adjustment block which I do once a week. From your CAD drawings, it appears the gen 4 & 5 rear black guard plates are fixed given the drawings show screws inserted up through the yellow base plate and held in place with hardware.

    With the gen 3, true it takes time to remove the six screws, but once the clear plastic guard is off, I can very easily brush the rod while rotating it and I can scrape the caked-on grit off the rear end wall and then brush/vacuum the interior clean.

    But the new gen 4 & 5 setup appears to continue doing this cleaning, I'd now have to unbolt the 8000 from the stand, place it on its side, and remove the front guard plates top & bottom hardware.

    If true, how about a gen 6? Would it be possible to attach fixed guide pins on the yellow base, machine L-shaped slots on the bottom lip of each guard plate, and use thumb screws along the top? This way the plate could be easily removed with the 8000 bolted to the work stand. To reinstall, insert the guard plate with the guide pins going into the L, push the plate rearward, insert the thumb screw and tighten.

    Next question - on the gen 5 & 4, are the thumbscrew(s) passing through the yellow top plate hole(s) and threading into a welded in place nut on the underside of the top yellow plate? Or are the yellow plate's holes no longer through holes (as in the gen 3) but are now tapped? I'm asking for if the holes are now tapped, that would be an easy modification to make to a gen 3 by drilling and tapping a new hole - and then only one thumb screw would need to be removed with a future gen3-to-5 upgrade kit. Presuming the difference in the gen 4 upgrade kit to a gen 5 is just the vacuum dust collector.

    TIA for reading and answering.
     
  2. Magna-Matic

    Magna-Matic Sponsor
    Posts: 826

    Hello CQ-DX,

    Sorry the response time was slow. We've been having a very busy spring.
    You have a lot of questions in here, so i'll try and make sure to get each one. If i miss something please ask again in a new post.

    The main benefit of the retrofit update kit is to simply make the changing of grinding wheels faster. Yes access to the adjustment would be restricted by the fixed steel guards. HOWEVER, they are held in by 4 screws and could still be removed. Generally speaking using compressed air is the easist way to clean the adjustment.

    Is your adjustment block aluminum or plastic?

    We have a number of plans for gen 6, we'll keep you posted.

    Gen 5 there is a single knob, and slot in the grit guard so it just slides right out.

    With the update kit, since there are no slots the two knobs must come all the way out to let the grit guard come away. The kit also requires the exisiting holes in the yellow plate must be tapped.

    I forgot to mention that also in gen 5 the grit guard became larger also to contain sparks even better.

    Let me know if i got everything, thank you,
     
  3. CQ_DX

    CQ_DX LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 67

    Thanks for your answers Gerd.

    The adjustment block is aluminum. Grit builds up in the slot as well as in the threads of the adjustment threaded rod. I use a brush to clean the threads as I turn the crank.

    I suppose I could drill (or use a Greenlee punch) a one inch diameter acess hole in the update kit's fixed guard plates then fabricate a cover, held in place with hardware .... use a fixed screw in the bottom hole to serve as a pivot point then a slotted hole at the top. Drill a small hole in the guard below the access hole to hold the pivot screw, and drill & tap a hole above the access hole. Loosening a top thumb screw would allow the cover to pivot down and out of the way to provide access for a brush or compressed air as desired. Think of a metal electrical box close-off plate (cover) and you'll get this idea. Personally, I prefer to brush versus blow grit and dust around.

    I also find I have to periodically scrape grit build-up off the inside surface of the yellow wall (behind the adjustment rod).

    Another place grit builds up is inside the grit guard, but that usually breaks away easily.

    Which reminds me, I need to place an order for more wheels!!

    Thanks again for answering my questions.
     
  4. Magna-Matic

    Magna-Matic Sponsor
    Posts: 826

    Hello CQ_DX

    If you really like brushing it, it is possible to access the threaded rod on the motor-side. The yellow active guard is spring loaded, and could be pushed out of the way to get your brush to the threaded rod.

    Or the top two screws of the pulley side steel guard could be removed, and there would be enough play to slightly pivot the pulley side steel guard outward to allow access to brush the adjustment. (without having to remove the bottom two screws that are under the bottom of the MAG-8000.)

    Grit will of course always build up in the "grit guard" or "spark guard", and yes as you noticed if you tap the grit guard it will fall right out.

    Thank you,
     
  5. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    i never thought changing the wheel was too difficult to have to spend more money to save like a minute. curious is all, lol. we love our mag baby, love it
     
  6. CQ_DX

    CQ_DX LawnSite Member
    from MA
    Posts: 67

    Your a LSC, right? So you can control when to swap wheels:
    • Do all the mulch blades today, all the flats tomorrow ... or ...
    • Do all the blades first for whichever wheel is currently mounted, and then swap wheels ... or ...
    • Do whatever makes sense as you have total control.
    But for a sharpening shop, you are pretty much dependant on what comes through the door (type/qty) and time of day they arrive. You may end up needing to swap back and forth. Remember, throughput in a service shop is our revenue stream whereas your effort is supporting the machines you own that are out making money.

    Cutting time OTJ is important to you; blade processing time is important to people like us.
     

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