Accu-sync users

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by ArTurf, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    I tried the master valve with adjustable model, incoming pressure was over 90psi, set it to 65 i think.....it vibrated loudly and into the pipes of the house even though the irrigation tap was in the lawn.........never tried one again.....called hunter and the guy could not answer what the problem was.......never got back to him either.....
     
  2. Sprinkus

    Sprinkus LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,073

  3. enorl76

    enorl76 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 130

    So by that thought, if you'd have done what you said before, counting on the pipe supply to reduce pressure by 70 psi, when the neighborhood fills out and the street pressure is 50 psi, now you've got a pressure drop problem.

    Secondly, you absolutely do not want 70 psi on the rotor zones, you'll get excessive misting and whatnot especially on residential heads. Not to mention the wear and tear from 70psi popping up vs 40psi

    Best bet is a high quality pressure regulator, and set it for a target PSI at the heads of about 35-40 psi. This, along with properly sized pipe for flow, keeping velocity below 5 ft per sec, is the only thing that is the proper answer for this problem that is durable and robust.
     
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,879

    This illustrates a difference between construction techniques in different parts of the country. Many northern homes with basement water meters have a long supply line between street and the sprinkler system connection point, and there is invariably a significant loss in pressure while the sprinklers are on. Trying to tone down the supply line water velocity means you will not have enough flow to get the watering done in a reasonable time. In decades gone by, 90 psi street pressure was considered close to the minimum acceptable, in order to make for a "standard" system of three brass impact heads per zone, and that was in the days before the RPZ appeared to subtract an extra 10 psi.
     
  5. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,404

    Installed adjustable Accu-Sync on MV this morning and toned down the rotors. Couln't connect guage to dial in but will do that later. Easy to install and adjust, didn't notice any weird things happening.

    Boots,
    For what it's worth, these can be installed on standard Hunter valves.

    e76,
    Per the advice of others on this site I didn't go with a conventional PR due to possibly reducing volume.
     
  6. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,879

    The Weathermatic regulating brass valve has a long tube for the purpose of connecting the regulator to a point a foot or so downstream of the outlet of the valve. This points to manufacturer knowledge that there can be complications with all the components located right next to each other.

    I like that the Hunter version fits the standard valve. I always thought it was kind of chintzy that the Irritrol version doesn't fit the 2500TF valve (due to the bonnet lacking two holes where the attaching screws thread in - the more expensive 214B globe/angle valve has a bonnet that fits)
     
  7. grassman177

    grassman177 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 9,795

    Does anyone here have or answer on the issue I had with mine on the master valve vibrating the pipe so badly outside, near the tap, that it reverbirated thru the whole house?
     
  8. ArTurf

    ArTurf LawnSite Gold Member
    Male, from Ark
    Posts: 3,404

    The system I just installed opens the valves smoothly and gradually builds pressure to the point where it is set. It is on a dedicated meter also.

    Maybe in your case high water velocity?
     
  9. mitchgo

    mitchgo LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,767

    I had one similar do that cept it was for a commercial property. My thoughts was the inlet psi was to high for this . We ended up installing a upstream prv.

    I always tell people it's better to reduce your pressure and keep the water flow based on charts then to keep your pressure and to reduce your flow.

    We use double checks up here but I was taught a good design is the 5-4-3-2-1 rule. 5 psi loss at the meter, 4 at the double check , 3 through the main line,2 through the valve and 1 through the lateral. So with a rpz that adds 10-15 extra loss.

    Aside from keeping high pressure you can do a flow test to give yourself the real numbers.
     
  10. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 46,879

    Anyone seeking help with one of these valves should state the make and model of the valve.

    I would never install a fixed-pressure reducing module (sorry, Hunter) since there might be a bit of tweaking required to stop an oscillation from happening.
     

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