Advice Seeding

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by wyoming lawn service, Mar 2, 2011.

  1. ChiTownAmateur

    ChiTownAmateur LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 386

    You have an existing stand of grass and want to plant new grass so 2 different issues exist -- how to fertilize the new seeds and also how to prevent crabgrass without preventing germination of your new seed.

    I used Scott's Starter w/crabgrass preventer (siduorn) and it works fine. A bit expensive....$45/5000 sq ft at regular home improvement center but my lawn is so small i don't care, that lasts me several seasons.

    By the 2nd week of April crabgrass is germinating in the area under normal conditions so if you wait much longer you risk crabgrass in your plot. My suggestion is to closely monitor the weather and search onlilne for soil temperatures near your major city i.e. I have 2 sites I follow and found simply by typing "chicago soil temperature" and there is a daily report.

    What you risk here is if you plant to early you may have your new seedlings killed off. Last year, because I am close to the lake I planted on Apr 3 and here by the lake it never froze although in the suburbs that don't have lake protection it would have frozen.

    A "safe" idea for you is this. 1st week of April, put down the starter fert with crabgrass preventer so that your plot is "immunized" from crabgrass...but don't seed the bare areas yet. So you are fully protected from crabgrass now, but the starter fert and preventer only lasts say 30 days.

    In mid-April (2nd or 3rd week), as soil temps come up, plant your plots that need new seed. The starter fert and crabgrass preventer will still be there and do their jobs. 30 days after your first app of the starter fert w/preventer (NOT 30 days after you plant), apply it again. Thus you have a new round of prevention and your new plot getting another shot of fert right after it comes up and is in need of another shot.

    Fescues in this area only take 2-3 weeks to come up, I did it last year with Supina bluegrass which takes a solid 3-4 weeks so you'll have enough time to get it rooted before it gets too hot.
     
  2. wyoming lawn service

    wyoming lawn service LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    Thank you for the advice! I have already set out the seed, did that over the last two days. I think I will follow your advice. Put down the starter w/ preventer in beginning of April and then I will apply MORE seed to the areas that are bare. Appreciate it!
     
  3. wyoming lawn service

    wyoming lawn service LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    Not an engineer by any means...BUT I am a perfectionist. Aren't YOU?
     
  4. wyoming lawn service

    wyoming lawn service LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108


    SmallAxe, I read in another post that you NEVER use Pre-M. Why? Does your area not get a lot of crabgrass? Southern Ohio gets a lot, especially last year. What is your strategy? Do share...also if you think I am waisting money by using Siduron, please explain. Thanks.
     
  5. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,082

    I am a pro that has seen each individual situation of every individual lawn, I've worked with over the past 40+ yrs...

    One size does NOT fit all... Under what circumstances does CG become a "PROBLEM" in your area???

    Only you can answer that question, becuz you're the one that lives there and "SEES" what is happening... But you have to observe...

    I firmly believe that any turf can reach a level of maturity in any 'zone' and eliminate the threat of CG...
    I know it can happen in Zones 3 & 4... You tell me if it can happen in Z5-9... :)

    Not sure how much explanation is needed to make the simple concept clear... Except perhaps answer "1" question... When do YOU see CG in YOUR area???
     
  6. tombo82685

    tombo82685 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 288

    What you also gotta look at is location. His area has better chance of getting away with no pre emerge because there soil temps/growing season is shorter than yours and mine. So what might work with him, might not work for you.

    Just like on golf courses up there compared to down here. Courses up there may get away with no or limited fungicides. Down in my area, if you try that you're out of job.

    Like smallaxe said, you know your area and how it reacts to certain conditions. It's up to you to determine what is acceptable and not acceptable.
     
  7. wyoming lawn service

    wyoming lawn service LawnSite Member
    Posts: 108

    Tombo, appreciate the response. I can see how things will vary from location. Appreciate the advice and knowledge.
     
  8. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,082

    Tombo is correct, that KNOWING what is happening in your area is important...
    It would be good for Pros to know WHEN the CG sprouts in their area...

    I have an open area in the garden, where the ground is tilled in the springtime so I know that that will be the earliest possible germination in our area... Because it is barren soil, it is easily spotted immediately...
    Turf takes longer, even in full sun and of course turf in the shade longer yet...
    Have fun... :)
     

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