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All crabgrass- How would you renovate

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by dfor, Aug 28, 2007.

  1. dfor

    dfor LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 821

    Here is a picture of what the lawn looks like. (click on it)

    There is some grass in it, but it is mostly crabgrass. Should I spray with round-up and slice seed?? Cut it super short and slice seed? Spray with crabgrass killer?? Rent a dethatcher and churn it all up and overseed?

    Thanks for any advice.
  2. zebkedic

    zebkedic LawnSite Member
    Posts: 10

    cut short, slit seed, starter fertilizer, water, water, and more water. Next year, be sure to put down a nice crabgrass preventer.
  3. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 10,081

    If you get a good take of good grass this fall, then great. If thin in the spring overseed again with cool season grasses and let them grow b4 Pre-M.
    There is time! Pre-M shuts down root development 'after' the crabG germinates.
  4. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,496

    Nope. as dense as that is, I would spray it off with gly first, then slitseed it. New seed doesn't stand much of a chance in that thickness.
  5. mcollins

    mcollins LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    I have somewhat the same problem (but not as dense) and was wondering if a slit seeder would work when the ground is really compacted and hard? Also, after seeding should I mulch?
  6. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,496

    Yes,...some slitseeders will work on the hard ground (most do - some work better than others). Use a big oe that is hydro drive. This way, the machine doesn't "skip". And no,...no need to mulch afterwards. Just seed in two directions. the first hard frost, the crabgrass will die.
  7. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    Yeah but I would go for a crabgrass killer vs. an all-vegetation killer myself, either way you have to wait 30 days after that before you seed, as far north as you are I'm not sure if that will work but it should, we aerate into December and what doesn't come up now comes up in spring, if you still have time make sure to use a farming fertilizer (non-slow release) otherwise use slow release, and the soil has to be moist to be aerated (i.e.: it needs to rain real good first).
    Also they are now recommending a minimum of 50 pounds of 90% seed per 1/4 acre, I would tend to agree with this, 75-100 pounds per 1/4 would probably rock that lawn's world.
  8. dcgreenspro

    dcgreenspro LawnSite Senior Member
    from PA
    Posts: 689

    If you want, round-up and renovate or just renovate....eithier way, the crab is going out now so you need to get some turf in there for next year and pre-m. Both will work, but the round -up is easier to grow in the new plants and you can get in there the day after you spray.
    Spraying drive right now is a huge waste of money.
  9. Runner

    Runner LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 13,496

    I agree completely. Spraying something like Drive or Acclaim would not be the way to go. It would just be a huge waste of money - since th crabgrass is on it's way out anyway. Even deeper than that,...if you spray that, you WOULDN'T be able to seed for about a month. Well,..by that time, you probably WILL have a decent frost that will kill the crabgrass out. So, in the meantime, atleast you can have some seed germinating, and you are that much farther ahead. Also, as dc said, with Roundup, you can go right in afterward and plant. There is no waiting period. Yes, it takes a week to ten das for the existing vegetation to die off completely, but the plant is long dead before the foliage turns brown, and the glyphosate in the soil will not affect the new seed. As a matter of fact, more often than not, if we are doing both spray and seed, we drill the seed in, and THEN spray it with Roundup.
  10. turfnh2oman

    turfnh2oman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 127

    1) Spray Roundup and slice seed, No. Spray Drive at label rate and slice seed, Yes. Only if there's enough desirable turf there already. Wait one week to seed after Drive.

    2) Spray Roundup then dethatch down to bare soil, rake off debris, overseed and ROLL IN [do not DRAG !] . Use debris you raked off as mulch or use straw. (Debris is lighter weight, decomposes quicker and starts a nice minimum organic thatch layer, besides that, it's free and onsite !] Whatever you prefer. Starter Fert at 1 lb N/Mft.2 at seeding and another 3/4 lb. N 4-6 weeks later, weather depending. Keep moist 5-7 weeks and Voila'! Lesco Starter 18-24-12 is what I use. 50% SCU.

    Option 2 will give you best results. I prefer this rather than slit seeding into what was crap grass to begin with.

    Objective, a healthy, UNIFORM stand. :weightlifter:

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