And why are homeowners allowed to do their own lawn?

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by grandview (2006), Apr 10, 2012.

  1. grandview (2006)

    grandview (2006) LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,466

    Soon as we get rain ,I'll take pixs of all the stripping he does on with his spreader.

    And I stand by what I said. Few years ago ,wishing I had my camera with me. Grandma was out miracle growing her bushes and her grand kid was running through the spray. Yes, she was stupid, and that is part of my point.
     
  2. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 900

    :laugh:

    :dizzy:
     
  3. Cadzilla

    Cadzilla LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 900

    Or you could go and give him a business card, strike up a conversation, perhaps add him as a client, or give him a couple tips and get some good karma.

    It's like a big assed sign saying come sell me some professional lawn care at a fair price. My wife hates me. HELP!

    I see a five hundred dollar machine seed for starters.
     
  4. wrooster

    wrooster LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 76

    Somehow I missed this question earlier in the thread.

    Upfront I am not the type of person to expect some sort of miracle coming in a 40lb bag. To me, an perhaps others agree, the yard is a long-term management problem and any attempt at a "quick-fix" usually results in pissed away money.

    Anyway here is my DIY program which has some variance depending on a few things... For reference I have roughly 1.2acres of turfgrass, most on a gentle incline, with two somewhat different hydro-zones. The back yard is heavily shaded, the front yard not so much. I have in ground irrigation with 9 zones.

    Very early Spring -- as soon as the ground is fully thawed, aerate with tow-behind plugger. Also, every other year do soil sample. Lime if needed using pelletized lime and a broadcast spreader.

    Early Spring -- Granular pre-em, usually by the second week of March; Occasionally I have been "testing", using one year for example Halts on the front yard and Dimension in back. The prior owner did little weed control and I have a lot of leftover annual weed seeds to content with... :)

    Early Spring -- NPK: Typically Lesco 19-0-6, again usually by the second week of March

    Mid-Spring -- Gordons Trimex w/ Crabgrass control (or equivalent WeedBGon Max) applied using a 25gal spot sprayer to knock down anything that has come up -- chickweed is prevalent in this area and is a huge problem this year. While I have the sprayer dirty I refill with generic Gly and kill anything in the driveway, walks, and other areas. If I can get Gly+Extended control on sale I'll use that instead, it works well in the pebble driveway to keep things at bay for some time.

    Early Summer -- Granular pre-em, usually by June 1. Here in the mid-atlantic the real crabgrass bloom doesn't show up until mid-July to August, when the high heat, high humidity, and no rain conditions prevail. The problem then is that the Pre-Em applied in the early spring is running out of endurance. I wish there was a one-stop approach with this problem but alas I have not figured out how.

    Early Summer -- NPK: Typically Lesco 19-0-6.

    Summer -- Granular grub and insect control -- generally whatever Ortho product is available locally.

    Summer -- For whatever reason, I generally never have a broadleaf weed problem. Like this year -- it would take me a half hour of walking to find a single dandelion in the lawn. But crab, chick, and barnyard grass are ALWAYS problematic. Anything that comes up through the pre-em and got past the initial application of liquid herbicide will face another round of spot spraying.

    Fall -- Granular winterizing NPK. typically Lesco but I forget what is in that bag -- need to look at my board (see below).

    Note:
    Things vary widely in the late spring/summer phase. Last year was anomaly -- so much rain that I enabled the sprinkler system only three or four times. The biggest problem was topsoil erosion. I overseeded several areas last fall using a slit seeder.

    I keep track of the application dates/rates/spreader settings/etc on a large white board in my workshop, including a couple of years of history. This keeps me grounded on what has been put down, and I can also use it to track which of my "experiments" worked out better (like last year, when Dimension had much, much better Pre-Em results versus Halts when it came to summer crabgrass).

    I'll take a pic later and show you what the whiteboard looks like.

    Things I have ideas on but have not tried:
    -- Converting one of the NPK applications to Milargonite; I've also heard Mil is a decent deer repellent for at a least a period of time.
    -- Doing very, very late fall pre-em weed control in an attempt to reduce the number of weeds that germinate in early spring. Is there any benefit to this?

    Wrooster


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  5. bx24

    bx24 LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA/TX
    Posts: 503

    nice bota...I have the BX24...love it. installed thousands of sprinklers with it.

    Are you spraying or speading ferts?

    I ask since Halts (scotts) IS a Pre-m. Dimension is better for crabgrass but weeds seem to get more control using Pre-m (3.3).

    I used to use Lesco but now that are JDL and suck. There prices are a joke and unprofessional for me. I use Southern State for all my products.

    PS. What is with the non-bota grill guard????? They did not give you one?
     
  6. wrooster

    wrooster LawnSite Member
    from NJ
    Posts: 76

    During college I installed thousands of heads ... with a shovel -- LoL.

    Broadcasting granular fertilizer.
    Spraying liquid herbicide.

    Would you restate this more clearly?

    My local place still has Lesco at reasonable prices but I am not married to any particular brand.

    That is the OEM Kubota guard, been on there since day one.

    Wrooster


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  7. bx24

    bx24 LawnSite Senior Member
    from MA/TX
    Posts: 503

    Installed head by hand? NUTS

    I spray liquid herbs and use a Lesco 80 lb spreader for gran ferts.

    Just saying Dim sucks for weeds vs Pre-M.

    Lesco dropped the ball when the merged with JDL and there prices and service sucks.
     
  8. mike174

    mike174 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 240

    Wrooster,
    Sorry to inform you, you are not paying 20% of the cost of a professional. Big Box Scotts bags and 1/2 rate herbicides will cost you the same if not more than professional service. If you enjoy doing the work, and have the time, maybe that's OK for you. For other people, why pay the same AND do the the work, when you can have a professional do it for the same cost. Your 2 bullet points support professionals, a) performance standards, b) education.

    To answer your questions:
    Yes, the success ratio of a professional is better.
    Yes, you need to have knowledge and expertise to be licensed.
    So homeowners know how to properly apply chemicals, and not over apply.
    No downside, Knowledge will help the environment.
     
  9. scottparker

    scottparker LawnSite Member
    Posts: 9

    It's because you make money off the apps, so the state is gonna make money off you
     
  10. gcbailey

    gcbailey LawnSite Silver Member
    from WV
    Posts: 2,559

    maybe they just have a dog with a really bad bladder problem...
     

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