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angle or tubular

Discussion in '<a href=http://www.lawnsite.com/buttons/jump.php?i' started by Qdriver, Oct 30, 2003.

  1. olderthandirt

    olderthandirt LawnSite Platinum Member
    from here
    Posts: 4,900

    I have a ???. I've built 7 trailors of diff. sizes small single axels to a 25 foot goose neck and I found out that I don't save or make enough $$$$ to justify building trailors. Woul'nt it be cheaper to find a good quility trailor and do some fabrication to make it as you would want it. you could add the 4 ft mesh and make the gates where you need them. So how about some imput into how much$$$ you save from building over buying?

  2. Qdriver

    Qdriver LawnSite Member
    Posts: 188


    I believe I will save money in labor & mark-up. I have looked at the trailer Companies in my area and I feel they want too much for them.

    Sure, there is going to be a little mark-up when you buy the material, axles etc... but, not as much as with the completed unit.

    Mainly labor cost are where the savings come in.

    Again,. my father and I have built a few trailers (only small ones) and sold them for profit already. My question has to do with the lest expensive best material for a LARGER unit.

    I mean, if building was not less expensive than buying,... how would the trailer Companies stay in business themselves...?

    I understand your point. I just feel differently.:)
  3. olderthandirt

    olderthandirt LawnSite Platinum Member
    from here
    Posts: 4,900

    It was only a ?? I would rather spend an extra 1k and let someone else do all the work. I have so many dealer around me That its hard to make a $ building them myself. Best of luck with your project. Mac
  4. Qdriver

    Qdriver LawnSite Member
    Posts: 188

    I did not mean to sound indignant. :(

    I value any advice. I was just explaining why I feel it is cheaper to build.

    I would rather pay extra to have someone else build it, if I had the money.

    I guess the dealers around here have found people will pay their high prices instead of building.

    I am willing to pay in sweat what I can save in Dollars to start out with.
  5. Scag48

    Scag48 LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,067

    Building trailers is a pain is the azz no matter how big it is. A trailer that light duty wouldn't be more than $2,000 from a dealer anyway. Just have someone else build it and save yourself some time and frustration. You would only be saving about $1,000 at the absolute most on a $2,000 trailer.
  6. Qdriver

    Qdriver LawnSite Member
    Posts: 188

    I thank everyone for their comments & advise.

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,426

    We use reqtangular tubing on rails, and round tubing for roll cages of the race cars. The left sides of the car also use a heavier gauge to keep them on the track better. The reason for tubing, less flex, we make all track adjustments with suspension, and, this method should be taken to day to day routines with trailers/and vehicles.

    Build your frames rigid, spand a few hundred dollars more on steel, and do the job once. When you want a betetr ride, or better trailering, make those adjustments with suspension. Peronally, for trailers, I prefer spring suspensions over rubber toque bar. The torque bars wear faster, and get sloppy eating rubber from the tires, where the springs ride rougher, but last longer...

    When you wire your trailer, use 6 strand, 12 gauge encased semi truck trailer wire. Then use loop ends into a junction box out to lights. That way you don't have to worry about wiring issues down the road... s
  8. KerryB

    KerryB LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 661

    Not sure but don't you have to have it inspected before you can put it on the road? I would think that one that size would cause some concern for your insurance carrier also. They may charge you more to insure it, or not insure it at all.
    Here you have to show that a lic. welder performed the work, take it to the Hwy Patrol station have them inspect it. If it passes thay will give you a form to take to the DMV to get tags and a title. Thats the legal way lol.
  9. chaikwa

    chaikwa LawnSite Member
    Posts: 5

    I just *HAVE* to respond to 'UNISCAPER'. You referred to 'torque bar' axles. I'm assuming you mean a rubber torsion spring axle? I thought you might like to know for future reference that Dexter Axle makes what they call a 'Torflex' axle. I don't know if this is what you've used in the past or not. (There are quite a few manufacturers making torsion axles now) Dexter however, gives an incredible warranty with their products and they stand behind them like no one else I've ever dealt with. The Torflex axles should NEVER become loose in ANY way, much less enough so that they create abnormal tire wear! If these are what you've used, PLEASE call Dexter. They WILL make it right!

    I build trailers for a living, and while I don't do many light trailers such as those being discussed here, I have about 200 on the road now that I have built since 1993, and I have never had one come back for the problem you stated. (probably 95% of them have the Torflex axle)

    Hope this has helped in some way.

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,426


    Thanks for the advice on the axles...This particular axle I refer to is under a Wells Cargo 16' 102" wide enclosed trailer. I am not sure whose brand it is, butI am just about due for brakes, so I will know more when I get it apart. What uis going on is the back set of tires on the tandem have wear almost down to the bottom of the tread on the outside treads of those tires.

    I was leary about getting a trailer with this type of axle when I bought this trailer in '95, I just prefer spring suspension over rubber. I also think if you need to beef up a spring, you can just add another leaf. With a torque flex, you have to change the whole unit, correct?
    Thanks for the input, this is great stuff!

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