Any solenoids have a "soft" close?

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by CRUZMISL, Aug 24, 2005.


    CRUZMISL LawnSite Member
    from zone 6
    Posts: 186

    I'm getting some pretty good water hammer (or could be just a loose pipe) when the valves close despite the fact that I installed a water hammer arrestor and I am below 10GPM on 3/4 copper. Are there solenoids that close slower or a way to make them close a bit slower? I have a Rainbird ESP controller.

  2. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,722

    The controller and solenoid have nothing to do with it. The size of the water passage between the top and bottom of the diaphragm have everything to do with it. Make it smaller and the valve will close slower. Or maybe it won't close at all. A few ancient brass diaphragm valves actually had special replacement orifice screws, to allow for slower closing. For modern valve designs, not much to do about fast closing.
  3. Ground Master

    Ground Master LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 505

    Rainbird PEB series valves are slow closing..........give them a try
  4. Planter

    Planter LawnSite Member
    from Utah
    Posts: 214

    Hunter also makes a slow close valve that is great.

    CRUZMISL LawnSite Member
    from zone 6
    Posts: 186

    Thanks! Do I need to replace the whole valve or just the solenoids? The whole valve is a lot of work:(
  6. SodKing

    SodKing LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,648

    The whole valve. The are basically dirty water valves. You may also try to secure your copper pipes in house better, make sure they are all hung properly.
  7. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,722

    The slowest-closing 'standard' valve may be Toro's 250/260 series - it would take minutes, literally, for them to close after manually opening them with the bleed screw.
  8. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    You had to install a booster pump to get the 10gpm........your pipe size and flow are not your problem. Your problem is that your supply side doesn't provide that 10gpm without the booster. You are sucking water at a rate higher than your supply is geared to provide. When things shut off, everything has to equalize, thus your vibration. If you were seeing true "hammer", you could watch the pressure guage on that new pump "bounce", and I'm betting it's not bouncing much.

    I've seen the water pump in a dishwasher provide pipe rattle. The house plumbing should have been adequate, except the city was providing less than 20psi at times. That dishwasher lasted less than 5 years. Since then the city in question has added two new water towers and I am seeing consistent static readings of 55psi and 10gpm flows at 40psi. I can finally install sprinklers down there again.

    CRUZMISL LawnSite Member
    from zone 6
    Posts: 186

    So it's not true "water hammer" and I shouldn't worry about it?
  10. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Solinoids are either on or off, and they go between states in milliseconds.

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