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Auxillary Power in Ford Truck Trailer Plug

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by Total.Lawn.Care, Oct 29, 2006.

  1. Total.Lawn.Care

    Total.Lawn.Care LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 841

    I just installed 12V DC lights in my trailer to run off the Auxillary Power Lead from the trailer light plug. However, to test it, I had to plug my Chevy up to the trailer because my '94 Ford F-150 did not get power to the 12V+ power lead in the trailer plug harness. Upon further head scratching as to why that plug does not have power, I tested the 12+ power lead on my '03 Ford Excursion and low and behold, it does not have power either. Has anyone else experienced this with their Ford Truck?

    Is there a wire lead somewhere that needs to the connected to the battery or a fuse installed that I am unaware of. I have looked in the manuals and cannot find anything referencing this 12V+ power lead.

    Any suggestions?
  2. Luvs2Play

    Luvs2Play LawnSite Member
    Posts: 246

    I believe on a Ford, the key has to be in the run position in order to get 12 volts.
  3. Fordsuvparts

    Fordsuvparts LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 517

    On a lot of the newer fords the fuse and relay are not in place in the fuse box under the hood. The constant power wire on the ford should be an orange wire.
    you probably will have to buy another 30 amp maxi-fuse from an auto parts store to make it work.
  4. gammon landscaping

    gammon landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 550

    good question i could not get mine to work on my 99 f250 the other day had the fuse and relay in it and it still would not work.
  5. Total.Lawn.Care

    Total.Lawn.Care LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 841

    I did figure out that on our 2003 Excursion, it works when the key is in the run position. In other words, when the truck is running, it works. I have a friend that said the same thing about his 2006 F-350 dually. Have to have the Maxi-Fuse in and the key in the run position.

    I think this is crazy to have to have the key on. You do not want the ignition charged (or truck running) for hours on the jobsite just to run two 12V lights to illuminate the inside of the trailer.

    I thought about wiring my interior trailer lights to the brown running lights wire, so that all I have to do is turn on the truck parking lights at night and I would be able to use the interior lights then. Plus it would help identify the truck on the side of the road in those low light conditions late in the evening.
  6. mike lane lawn care

    mike lane lawn care LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,707

    what about installing a battery in the trailer that powers the lights? then hook that battery up to a charge controller and plug it into the tow hookup, that way when the truck is running the battery is being charged, and you have lights int he trailer.
  7. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,342

    The reason you need the truck running is the very thing you just mentioned. Running aux. lighting, even 12volt interior lights without charging the battery can leave you looking for a jump start. Why not add a bigger battery to your safety brake disconnect and run your lights from there. That way you are not running your vehicle battery down and whenever you crankup and drive off, you recharge your disconnect battery. I use an automotive battery for my brake disconnect and run a hydraulic pump on a dump trailer from that battery, its always charged and has plenty of amps for the hyd. pump.
  8. FearThisDeere

    FearThisDeere LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,168

    Has anyone thought of the push-on lights? I bought two at Walmart for $8 each and they work great. They run off two AA batteries and illuminate a lot. The batteries last for like 100 hours or something like that. They mount flush to the side of the trailer. I have them in my dump trailer and they really throw off a good amount of light. Just buy the more expensive ones, the cheap ones for like $1 each are junk, I know!:rolleyes:

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