B&S 11 HP Governor issues

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by hdtvluvr, Apr 10, 2007.

  1. hdtvluvr

    hdtvluvr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 490

    OK, I have tried to find a replacement engine without success. It goes in a John Deere 111 and I've been told that an engine with OHV will not fit. The JD has an electric PTO which requires a higher output than just charging a battery.

    I checked with a local repair shop and was given an estimate of approx. $500 to rebuild. It does burn a little oil and it also leaks. The main problem is that it lacks power. The governor doesn't work. I can rotate the governor clockwise with a screwdriver and the engine will speed up. The governor will NOT turn counterclockwise.

    Based on photos I've seen, it appears that 2 weights on the splasher move outward when the engine is running thus causing a cap to extend and rotate the governor rod. However, this rotation appears to be counterclockwise based on the photos. Therefore, I'm not sure how the governor would ever work.

    The engine has been without a governor for about 5 years. The mower hasn't been used much but is now called upon for spraying, fertilizing and occassionally rough mowing. Anyway, I assume the splasher is working properly since the engine hasn't seized due to lack of lubriction.

    What could be the problem? Is it the weights / cap or is it an external adjustment? I've looked at the governor, throttle cable, etc. area and it is difficult to tell anything about it (everything is behind a metal plate on the engine). With the age of the engine, it could be a linkage, spring, adjustment, etc. What do I need to look for?

    Again, based on the photos I've seen, it doesn't seem difficult to replace the splasher, weights, & cap. But I don't want to take the engine off, find out all parts are there and in good shape and discover I missed something external? Has anyone seen this problem before?

    One company said an 18 HP v-twin would fit under the hood but it was $900. I'll admit that more power would be welcomed but $900 is too much. I've found a new 18 hp v twin for a little over $500 but I don't know if I would need a new throttle cable, voltage regulator (currently only have the diode) and I don't know how to wire it.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Motor specs (original engine)
    Model 252707
    Code 0644-01
    Type 82092911
     
  2. khouse

    khouse LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,465

    Does the engine over rev at high idle? When you snap the throttle from low to high idle can you see the governor arm working?
     
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

  4. hdtvluvr

    hdtvluvr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 490

    Khouse
    I'm not sure about over rev at high idle. I'll check to see if the governor arm works tonight when I get home.

    Restrorob,
    So with a shortblock, does that mean I would need to use my starter, flywheel, stator, carb and engine cover? Any other parts from my old engine needed?

    How difficult is it to build? Any links? Any special tools needed?

    Thanks
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023


    Yes.....but no engine cover,

    Yes, ALL external parts must be swapped.

    Not difficult, Set your old engine on a work bench then set the shortblock next to it. Remove one part at a time and install on the new one. Continue the process until all parts are swapped.

    Here is one link which is a complete break-down on the engine, No on-line service manuals that I have been able to find.

    http://www.briggspowershop.com/BriggsAndStratton/advancedsearch.aspx

    The only special tools needed is a torque wrench to torque the head and a recoil clutch tool if you have recoil start, Which there are ways around having to use that tool.
     
  6. hdtvluvr

    hdtvluvr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 490

    Khouse,
    Governor arm didn't move when I went from low to high idle.

    Regarding the torque wrench, I have one that measures ft/pbs. Would this be the correct on? How many ft/lbs are necessary for the head bolts?

    Will the timing already be set up on the short block? Do I have to adjust the governor somehow before cranking? Taking parts off one and putting on another sounds easy enough but what do I need to know as far as adjustments?
     
  7. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Yes, The timing will be set, You will not be inside the engine so no worry about that.

    Yes, The governor MUST be adjusted before start-up.

    Below is the specs. and what a short block looks like, This is all you get to put all your parts on.

    [​IMG]

    Briggs shortblock 2.jpg
     
  8. hdtvluvr

    hdtvluvr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 490

    >>> Governor adjustment:
    Tighten the bolt nut .... but don't pinch the the arm closed. <<<

    I don't understand what you are talking about here. Do you have a diagram?

    Also, what is the torque specs for the oil pan bolts?

    What is the best way to remove the PTO clutch? Is there a puller? When I put it back on, should I use anti-seize?

    Lastly, should I just replace the oil pan gasket & governor on the engine I have and wait to shortblock it when it totally dies?
     
  9. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    [​IMG]


    Sump (pan) Torque 140 in.lbs or 12 ft.lbs

    No puller that I know of. Drain oil and fuel from engine, Flip up side down and remove crank bolt then spray penetrating oil in that area. Install a longer bolt then find a helper, Grab the outside of the clutch and pick the engine up off your work bench about a half inch and have helper tap on the head of the bolt and if your lucky it will slide off.

    Always use anti-seize on items as this.

    That's entirely up to you.
     
  10. hdtvluvr

    hdtvluvr LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 490

    Thanks for all of the links and images. I'm going to look up the part #'s this weekend and try to get the parts ordered.
     

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