B&S replacement engine

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by john_incircuit, Aug 31, 2007.

  1. john_incircuit

    john_incircuit LawnSite Senior Member
    from NC
    Posts: 309

    Hit a stump with my John Deere JS -63 walk behind, B&S Intek engine Model 121602 0529. Crankshaft is now bent; mower is approx 2 years old.

    This is just my backup mower with over 300hrs, need an affordable replacement engine.

    The B&S replacement engine catalog does not list my “0529” model number

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/EngineReplacement.pdf


    The parts list from Briggs (IPL Form Number - MS2143 ) lists that the crankshaft on my “0529” model is also used on “0525” and the “0349” model.

    My question is how reliable are those IPL lists from B&S? Is it a fairly save bet that when I order a “0349” model, this thing will fit?
     
  2. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 915

    I'd like to tell you YES, but there are other possible issues. Some may matter and others may not-
    Not a complete inclusive/exclusive list here, but you get the idea-

    Is it self propelled? Notice the different sumps.
    Flywheel brake?
    Primer or choke.
    Throttle cable orientation.
    Direction that the recoil start points.
    Paint color.

    IOW, you would basically have to compare all the "pertinent" issues between the 2 engines.

    BTW, the IPL's are pretty much the only thing to use for reference other than a hands on comparison.
    Edit-
    I did notice different governor springs, but those could be swapped.
     
  3. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 915

    Add- these ARE differences between the 2 engines-
    Control bracket (affects throttle set up?)
    Blower housing
    Spring−Brake & Brake (probably doesn't matter, but????)
     
  4. johnp900

    johnp900 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 71

    just straighten the crank, check the flywheel key & get back to work.
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    John, This is the EXACT replacement engine per my Briggs dealer's site;


    ORIGINAL ENGINE
    Model Type Crankshaft
    121602 0529 691456


    REPLACEMENT ENGINE
    Model Type
    121602 0625 3250 rpm All


    SHORT BLOCK
    Part Number
    692748

    The short block from Briggs is $150.70 list.

    But, The "0525" and the "0349" have the same part number crankshaft and short block.

    Sooo, Either of these engines will bolt right up to your unit but you will have to change what ever external parts that are different from your old engine as Bill stated.

    Oh, I don't know if you seen the one below but looks like a deal.....


    http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com...+5+32+Shaft+Intek+IC+OHV+Recoil+Start+Takeoff


    Straightening a bent crank can be hazardous to your's and other's health.....
     
  6. john_incircuit

    john_incircuit LawnSite Senior Member
    from NC
    Posts: 309


    Yes, that's the one I had in mind. $110 sure beats the $400 list price. Those Intek would be good engines, if they had a real air filter. We mulch, and the blow-outs usually clogs the filter in no time. At least for me, it is virtually impossible to remove the air filter without letting some dirt fall into the carburetor throat.


    Thanks for all the help!!
     
  7. john_incircuit

    john_incircuit LawnSite Senior Member
    from NC
    Posts: 309

    The engine swap worked!! $110 engine from the "Small Engine Warehouse". Thanks for all your help.

    It took me a little bit to turn the new "0349" model into the John Deere specific "0529", but the motor is running good now (after hours of troubleshooting, before I noticed that the new metal hood would shorten out the kill wire on the ignition model)

    I have two quick questions:

    -- I replaced the ignition coil and made sure that the new coil has the same gap to the flywheel. Is there an alignment procedure for the "left - right" adjustment of the ignition coil, to advance / delay the timing? Couldn't find anything on this, or do I only have to worry about the gap to the flywheel?


    -- The engine is spec'ed out for 3250 rpm. Do I adjust the rpm with or without the blades mounted?


    Again, thanks for all you help, I'm glad my old JS 63 is running again!
     
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    John,

    All you have to worry about is the coil to flywheel air gap, Set the RPM with the blade on ready to mow.

    Glad to hear you got it running on the cheap side....

    Cya
     
  9. Bill Kapaun

    Bill Kapaun LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 915

    Glad to hear you got it running on "the cheap".!
    What parts did you actually have to swap?
     
  10. john_incircuit

    john_incircuit LawnSite Senior Member
    from NC
    Posts: 309


    Only the bracket that operates the kill switch was completely different, plus the new carburetor had a variable speed setup. I changed it, as it just would not run smooth.

    The metal hood was slightly different, I didn't realize this at first, the new metal hood did shorten out the (old) kill switch assembly.

    The small engine warehouse folks told me that the engine has 5 hrs or less on it. I agree, the spark plug looked like new, no carbon what so ever on the exhaust, airfilter was like new.

    Looks like I'll get another 300 hrs out of this one.
     

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