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Backpack blower Question

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by DBLC, Oct 21, 2004.

  1. DBLC

    DBLC LawnSite Member
    from AR
    Posts: 130

    i currently run stihl br420. They are getting worn and VERY hard to start. However, they do run pretty good if you can get them started. Any ideas on what would make them start better? Also, I want to change blowers over to Redmax. Whick is the most powerful. Thanks!
  2. geogunn

    geogunn LawnSite Gold Member
    from TN
    Posts: 3,010

    I have a br-400 with many, many hours on it and its easy starting days have passed also.

    I dunno if adjusting the carb would help but it is a booger to crank.

    it helps mine to have a fresh sprk plug. I don't mean new but one that has been cleaned and dried.

  3. mkwl

    mkwl LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,701

    I have a Stihl BR 320 BP blower. It is a 1997 model and it still starts on the second pull, unless it is really cold.
  4. John Gamba

    John Gamba LawnSite Fanatic
    from ct
    Posts: 10,812

    Check the compression, If its still good go with a new carb. The redmax 8000 seems to be the biggest they make.
  5. bushtrimmer

    bushtrimmer LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 351

    If you're looking for power and happy with Stihl, they will have their new blower ready in spring and it outblows everything else, til it gets copied. Looks like it will have a good price point as well.
  6. proenterprises

    proenterprises LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,297

    any word on when the new stihl will be ready for sale. how much is the price tag slated to be?
  7. John Gamba

    John Gamba LawnSite Fanatic
    from ct
    Posts: 10,812

    Is that new stihl the 4 mix?
  8. Oldtimer

    Oldtimer LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,458

    If the compression is below 100-110 psi a set of rings will make the blower run like new. Blowers will actually start with much less compression than any other 2 cycle equipment due to the mass of the impeller.

    If the compression gets too low the skirt of the piston will transfer aluminum to the cylinder wall without scoring the cylinder.

    The cylinder will often be reusable if the aluminum is removed with muriatic acid. Use extra long cotton swabs and clean the hard chromed cylinder only. Don't allow the acid to contact the combustion chamber or intake & exhaust ports. Acid will also clean aluminum from the journals of crankshafts.

    Use the following precautions:


    "When water is added to muriatic acid, an exothermic (heat is given off) reaction occurs. This is often accompanied by a violent "belch" which propels the acid mixture out of the container and onto the person making the dilution!

    Throughly clean all oil & grease from the parts
    Wear rubber gloves, eye protection & don't allow contact to skin
    Work next to a source of running water
    Wash parts immediately after using acid
    Take care to get acid only on steel or hard chrome



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