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Base Course

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by Remington351, Oct 17, 2012.

  1. Remington351

    Remington351 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 33

    I'm having trouble getting a base course level on a 110ft wall. Is there any reason that I can't set the base course of versalok on a 3/4" bed of mortar? My crusher-run leveling pad has some ridges and valleys that I can't seem to eliminate. Thanks.
     
  2. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,403

    A million ways to skin a cat.

    We get the compacted aggregate base as level as possible using a laser lever.

    And then we cheat (sometimes) - we'll use NO more than 1/4" of sand to help expidite the process of installing the base course.



    .
     
  3. Remington351

    Remington351 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 33

    Thanks for the reply, DVS. Most of the walls that I've done have been much shorter than this one. I've laid the of the base course twice now and ended up pulling the block out because I keep getting about 1/2 inch out of level after 30 feet or so.

    I was thinking that if I can use a mortar bed between the CR6 and base course then I may have more success by squishing the blocks down to level, rather than building one up on sand, pounding the next down, building up, pounding down, etc.

    Is a thin (3/4") mortar bed something that has been used in the past, or, is it an absolute no-no?
     
  4. alldayrj

    alldayrj LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,747

    I do the RCA base, tamp the hell out of it getting it close then put a half inch of fine sand and dialing it in. pound the lips of the block in and go
     
  5. KeystoneLawn&Landscaping

    KeystoneLawn&Landscaping LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 774

    Sounds like a good place for flowable fill?
     
  6. alexschultz1

    alexschultz1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,552

    A tightly pulled string level and a tape measure.
     
  7. alldayrj

    alldayrj LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,747

    i dont like line levels. transit the two pins, mark them, and pull the hell out of the string
     
  8. SVA_Concrete

    SVA_Concrete LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 467

    A few things i have found helpful.

    1 use concrete spreaders "comealongs" to spread gravel, a steel rake separates the material
    2. Use a high quality laser $1000.00 price range minimum, if you cant afford, rent.
    3 string lines are not good for elevation control over 40 feet. Wind and gravity take over. You will never get a line tight enough for a 100 foot run.
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  9. joes169

    joes169 LawnSite Member
    from WI
    Posts: 236

    I've used the "mortar" approach in the past, after discussing it with a Versa-Lok rep. No problem as long as it's under an inch in thickness, and it's not relatively strong. I believe I actually just used a very lean Portland cement and sand mix, as it wasn't sticky at all and had better leveling properties.........
     
  10. Mr. Midwest

    Mr. Midwest LawnSite Member
    Posts: 44

    Im not trying to be a jerk at all but are you sure that your level is working correctly? I have had guys run base and keep getting off only to find out that their torpedo level is off. There has to be a reason why your all of a sudden running unlevel base.
     

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