Best Irrigation System

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Piedmont1, May 15, 2005.

  1. Piedmont1

    Piedmont1 LawnSite Member
    from N.C.
    Posts: 10

    If you were going to install an irragation system at your residence what brand & which model components (heads, controllers etc.) would you use & why? Please be as specific as possible.

    Thank you!
     
  2. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,794

    Timer: Rainbird ESP Modular

    Why? Its reasionably affordable, upgradable, and in my experience, easiest for customers to use.

    Valves: 1" Threaded Rainbird DVF

    Again, Reasionably priced, extremely reliable, and it has flowcontrol and a bleed on it.

    Rotor Head: Hunter PGP or Hunter I-20

    Both are the industry standards...Indestructible, and easy to adjust.

    SprayHead: RainBird 1800

    Just my personal preference. I like the nozzles better than the Hunter Sprays, and they last forever.

    Wire: Multiconductor

    Please don't run individual wire.

    Pipe: Sch40 1 1/4", 1" and 3/4"

    Up here, we can't get away with class pipe because of how rocky the soil is. Other area's its just fine.

    Funny Pipe: Hunter

    I like Hunters funny pipe. Its stiff, but its strong. I've never had any blowout problems with it.
     
  3. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    You didn't specify, so I'm going to assume price is at least a factor. If it wasn't.......Oh boy, I like the expensive stuff, like brass :)

    Resonably affordable, reliable and something I'm going to trust, not mind working on, and stand behind.

    Depending on size and budget:
    Controller: Irritrol Kwik Dial for less than 12 stations
    Irritrol Total Control for more than 12 or if budget allows (caution, Total Control is not for the "average" person to program, Kwik Dial - even my grandmother could operate it)
    Valves: 2400s Proven track record, easy to work on if there is a problem or if you have to flush any foreign matter. Slip because I always install 8-10" of straight pipe on either side and it saves me a potential leak and two fittings.

    Rotors: Irritrol CR500 best nozzle performance, warranty, ability to handle low or excesive pressure, uni-directional 360 operation, and cost

    Sprays: Irritrol Canopy Nozzles on RB 1804's. Both the Hunter SRS and the Irritrol spray head are OK, RB1804's are just a comfort factor here

    Single Strand wire either 16ga or 14ga depending on distance. For my own installs, I use 18ga multi for cost purposes. In a southern application w/ fireants, I would never recomend multi-strand wire.

    I like poly laterals and I have nothing against blazing saddles either on poly or pvc lateral installations. For PVC laterals, snap saddles instead of T's saves a considerable amount of time and again reduces the chance of a bad joint at a fitting because Murphy showed up that day.

    Swing pipe is a necessity, I like blue stripe. Spiral barbed fittings, any name brand from the supply house will do.

    My own house....the controller is also an outdoor model and hard wired in. Personal prefrence.

    All of these are just my personal prefrences and what doesn't make me wring my hands and go "this is going to be profitable" when I show up at a repair payup
     
  4. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,794

    Fire ants eat through wire eh? Don't have that issue here :D

    At least you use different color wires for the different zones right?

    I absolutely hate troubleshooting jobs were the entire system was done with 14 guage red wire (including the common).
     
  5. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    Fire ants don't eat copper, they just like the insulation :)
    I always run a seperate color for common. I make my living knowing how to fix those 20 orange wires the backhoe dug up! I like a seperate color for MV and spares. Everyone runs at least one if not two spares each way....right?
     
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,794

    Seems like an awefull painfull way to do it. I always run multistrand because it allows me to troubleshoot a problem in a matter of minutes. Gives me time for more important stuff.

    I always run more wire than I need, usually by 2-3 conductors, it's saved me many a time.

    Connections are done with regular wire nuts enclosed in waterproof gel caps.
     
  7. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    If your using mulit, try the LV9000 connectors from King. They take a little getting used to, but once you do, they are faster to use and I find them very reliable. Best of all, you can connect the common on one side and the hot wire on the other and only put one connector per valve. They can be opened and re-used, it's just against the manufacture's recomendations, just like one-steps.

    Best part is, you are only bending the wire once into a "V" and then compressing the connection, no twisting. No twisting reduces the broken solid copper from time to time.

    And by wire nuts in gel caps, I think you are refering to what I call a DBY. I hate those. If I wanted to get greasy, I would have been a mechanic.
     
  8. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,794

    Hey dialetectric grease isn't that bad :D Its neccesary in the Northwest, we are very very damp.

    I'll look into those connectors.
     

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