Best Lawn fertilizer available to the public?

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by waltonjr1, Mar 19, 2008.

  1. waltonjr1

    waltonjr1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 12

    In your opinions what is the best fertilizer available at either your Home Depot's or online available to the public? Either liquid or granules, I sprayed some liquid weed and feed last week but want to also apply a good quality fertilizer to help with greening. This will be for centipede grass.
     
  2. NRG

    NRG LawnSite Member
    Posts: 4

    You can buy LESCO products at the Home Depot in my area. I think LESCO products are superior to most others available to the public! :waving:
     
  3. wiseguyslawn

    wiseguyslawn LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Posts: 464

    Lesco products are available to the public at the lesco warehouse or store near you at a premium price however.
     
  4. quiet

    quiet LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 720

    Scotts is a much better fertilizer. Pricey, though.
     
  5. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,448

    Scotts gets a bad rap, and no doubt, some of it is deserved. Their manufacturing process is actually very good, and the patented way they formulate thier fert is ingenious. Problem is, I don't like most of their formulations. Too much N. But, they use a process that makes not only the N slow release, but the P and K as well. They are chemically bound together, and release with microbial breakdown. What Scotts fails to tell people is the need for organic ammendements to make the most of what they apply to their lawns.

    Both Lebanon and Andserson's are available to the public, but not through the Home Depot-Lowes distribution network. Garden centers will carry these products. These are the products I choose to use.

    BTW.... anyone see this Scotts starter fert that claims crabgrass prevention while spring overseeding at the same time? It's VERY expensive, but I can't figure the mode of the AI. It's some sort of N based pre-M, but they don't say anything about the mode or the the AI on the label. :confused:
     
  6. quiet

    quiet LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 720

    Too much N? If you apply at a rate of, say, 1 lb of N/1000 s.f. during an app, what is the difference what the analysis is?

    Look at your sources of N, and your sources of K. That's what makes the difference in quality fertilizers. Scotts markets their Southern Turf Builder down here that is, I believe, a 22-3-14 analysis with SOP, MU, Ammonium Sulfate and Urea blend. Not bad at all.

    And really, any homeowner can buy what I buy . . . but do you wanna buy in pallet loads?
     
  7. Whitey4

    Whitey4 LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,448

    I was talking about combo products.... this starter fert with pre-M, and their step one, tow and three... all combo products that have too much N if the recommended amount of AI is applied.
     
  8. PHS

    PHS LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 724

    There's a Lesco in Baton Rouge, Claude is a good guy.
     
  9. lilmarvin4064

    lilmarvin4064 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 757

    ? I'm pretty sure its just siduron (Tupersan). I know Scotts makes a starter with this in it.

    I agree with you about Scotts products. They're good, but I would definitely change a few things about them. I would lower the N, up the K, increase the slow release (which is usually 25% to 30%) to 40% or 45%. Plus all their combo products (pre-emergent, insecticide) force you to apply between .75 and 1 # of N each application to get the desired ai.

    If you are looking for some premium fert, check out Lesco's Tryvex 20-2-16.
     
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,110

    Whitey and Lilmarvin, you are both right.
    However I would like to say that a high level of slow release is best. Say for instance 100 percent IBDU. Its better than SCU. I am not sure that Scotts claims its potash is slow release. Rather, I would prefer a slow release potash source. Most ordinary potash is highly water soluble.

    Not sure without a soil test what other minerals you might be lacking--for best results you need a soil test first. Sandy soil? Acid soil? low manganese?

    And consider the grass species. What level of acidity does it prefer? Did you say centipede? I am not in the south--but doesn't centipede prefer low nitrogen? A slow release nitrogen that released a small amount of nitrogen each month, plus slow release potash would work out well.
     

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