Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Not to worry. Check out the archived thread of the Q&A with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns, and the LawnSite community in the Franchising forum .
Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by smarino21, May 14, 2006.
I was looking into this bio diesel and all that stuff with cooking oils. Anyone no anything bout it?
I have researched it some on the 'net but have not gotten up the nerve to try it yet. That and I don't want my truck smelling like french fries!
It costs 1000's to convert a vehicle to burn veg oil bio-diesel without petro stablizers. It's best to just buy the blends that can be burned in any diesel with no modification.
Even if you were to convert your vehicle, you still have to run it for 10-15 minutes on regular diesel before you turn it off. Reason being, the veg oil has to be heated to 180 degrees in order of it to be used in modern injection type diesels. If you don't clear the veg oil out before shutting it off, you can't get it started again. The technology is really not there for start-stop city type of driving. If you drive 100+ miles every day non-stop, then it might be worth it.
There are also concerns about life of injector pumps. They don't seem to last very long because the lubrication properties of veg oil is different than petrol diesel. The pumps were never designed to run on veg oil but apparently some people haven't noticed a difference.
Like said above, the kits are big money to convert vehicles. You can run a mix of about 75% veggy oil and 25% diesel but only when the weather is hot out and it still add's extra wear to the engine. I ran that for awhile last year, but the guy that teaches me all this stuff told me to stop because blackstone oil tests showed it was adding wear to his engine.
He invented a kit for powerstrokes that can clear the system of veggy oil in 15 second I think it is. Starts and stops on diesel and then switches over to a heated tank of veggy oil in between. His kit is like 1600 I think, which isn't bad, but all it is is a heating coil in a tank, and then piping and solenoids with an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump (same as I run on the race car, only about 300 dollars).
You can run the mix though and it runs fine as long as temps are 75 degree's or more out side. Just you shouldn't expect a very long life for the engine. So if you sell your truck off every 3-4 years go for it! haha
Although vegtable oil blends require some mods to your vehicle, bio diesel will run fine in any diesel engine without modification; in fact, it's such a clean fuel it actually cleans out your fuel system. Some people find it necessary to change fuel filters once or twice after switching over to bio diesel because it will acutally "scrub" crud out of your tank.
It's kinda had to find still, but if there's a farmer's co-op anywhere near you, they should have it. Some of the municipalities around here that buy in bulk are starting to use it with good results, and it's cheaper.
It's $2.79 per gallon here.....so what's the use?.....Especially with the extra hassle.
This site should answer most questions. And set straight some of the misinformation! Hope it helps!
a friend of mine bought this program and has been using it for about 6 months without issue.....dieselsecret.com.....
Actual biodiesel that you buy at a pump or make at your home can be run in a 100% stock vehicle. You do not need to mod anything.
To run waste veggy oil (like I was talking about) you have to have a heated system and a purge system or it will add extra wear to your cylinder walls and injectors.
So you can either save 20 cents a gallon and buy biodiesel. Or you can spend a couple grand on a heated system and run waste veggy oil which you get for free but you have to clean. Or you can spend a couple grand on a biodiesel processor and make biodiesel for about 50-70 cents a gallon.
You can get a cheap biodiesel processor kit online for 250 dollars I believe, you have to buy a water heater too and thats what heats the veggy oil, then you add your lye and methanol and you have biodiesel.
I've got a couple years of research in it, just don't have the time or the space to make a processor and process my own fuel.
#2 is $3.44 here today... BD $3.25 or make your own for $.75 / gal (with free feedstock, WVO or SVO)
Bio-D = direct diesel replacement, better lubricity 80% less emissions, but more solvent charactoristics (keep filters on hand), + it will strip paint, and soften Butyl rubber lines and seals - Also cold can cause 'clouding' (crystals), especially in Soy or Palm based (want mustard (high Plains) or canola (Rapeseed)) do yourself a favor, and install a Racor 'pre-filter' + a fuel pressure gauge. ... The US national Bio-diesel board is run by the Soybean industry
WVO= Waste oil, usually from food processing, can run direct with 'kit' need to heat to 130F(Lots of horror stories, (usually inj pump cavitation ) best use is 'stationary applications', like a Detroit diesel Genset, turning your elect meter backwards see greentrust.org)
WVO can also be processed into BioD, then BD used as direct diesel replacement
SVO= virgin veggie oil can be run with kit, or processed into BD
not the favorite spot of true BD folks, (sore feelings over IP/overcommercialization) but lots of info at Journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
or of course the soybean folks biodiesel(dot)org or the university of New Hampshire, Iowa and Idaho are all quite active, as is the Community College in Piedmont, SC