Briggs 10.5 IC won't start

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by oharek1, Oct 29, 2007.

  1. oharek1

    oharek1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    B & S 10.5 IC on a Toro 32 walk behind
    model 28B702
    type 1041-E1
    code 000712ZD
    I have searched the forum for possible causes and repair for this problem and I have a few ideas but I am hoping I can narrow it down with this post.
    I have been registered to the site for a few months but this is my first post.
    It has been getting harder and harder to start this engine and now it won't start at all. Engine was not running smooth either. This has been going on for about a month.
    I noticed also that if I engaged the blades too quickly the engine would stall out. I had to ease the handle down to keep it from stalling.
    If my hand slipped off the bail for the kill switch the engine backfires.
    New spark plug and cleaned the carburetor but I don't think it is a fuel problem. If I squirt gas or starter fluid I get nothing. Couple puffs of smoke from the muffler but that's it.
    I can see spark on the plug.
    I checked the compression and it goes no higher than 30psi after several pulls on the cord. I don't know what it should be.
    Reading through the forum I am thinking it may be a valve problem.
    Any help from you guys would be great. :confused:
     
  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,022

    Sounds like valve/guides or rings, This engine needs at-least 50 lbs to start and if it does start at 50 it will lack power.
     
  3. oharek1

    oharek1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    Thanks Restrorob. How would I identify rings or valves or both as the problem.
    If I get the Briggs service manual 270962, will it get me through the repair?
    Is it worth repairing or get a new engine?
    Is it something I did or didn't do that would cause this problem?
    Man, I ask a lot of questions...
    This is a 2002 mower. I use it about 2 hours a day, 3 or 4 days a week during the mowing season here in Maryland.
     
  4. leeker

    leeker LawnSite Member
    Posts: 51

    I would do yourself a favor and get a new engine. if you are using it that much you dont have time for down time. that engine isn't overly expensive if you go back with the same engine. parts and time will cost you close to the new engine if you do the job right and not cut corners. do you have room on this unit for an OHV Briggs engine to put in its place.
     
  5. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,022

    1) A leak-down test would determine if it was rings or valves.

    2) The service manual would give any details needed to perform any repairs needed on these engines.

    3) Most likely not as leeker explained. Call this place with your model and type numbers in hand and see what they offer as a replacement;

    http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/ProductList.asp?Category=Engine&Supplier=Briggs

    4) Most likely not, This little engine just got to the end of it's useful life.

    5) Yes you do....:laugh:

    This engine was built in 2000 so are you sure this is a 2002 unit ? Maybe a left-over 2001 ? Doesn't really matter just letting you know.

    Cya
     
  6. oharek1

    oharek1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    Thanks guys for your assitance and advice.
    I will call the small engine warehouse to see what they can do for me.
    I wouldn't know about room for the OHV engine, but I will ask the warehouse.
    I got the mower new but I am sure it was a leftover or end of year. I got a good price.
    I couldn't find my receipt for the exact purchase date but the Toro site has the serial number for the mower as a 2002 model.
    I will let you know what I end up doing.
    Thanks again. :waving:
     
  7. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    I would check another engine with that compression tester, see what you come up with, then re-check the briggs, something don't sound right... 30 psi is like LOL, you should get at least 70-90, I like to see 100-150...
    I mean, if it really is that low then something is way wrong with it.
    But what if you just didn't get a good seal, I just can't see it going from awrite to 30 like that...

    Up to you, replacing the engine is an afternoon as well, but if you keep coming up with 30 psi then yeah it would be easier to swap it out, but a good engine should give you a LOT more with that same tester, otherwise maybe the tester is bad?

    My brigg'ses have been famous for float bowls sticking.
    Also, this can be helpful:
    http://www.small-engines.com/nostart.html
     
  8. oharek1

    oharek1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    I checked my Kawasaki 6hp and it is 120psi.
     
  9. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    Ok, that's more like it, now we know the tester is good.

    So re-check the briggs, make sure you take a fresh approach and double check your steps to make sure it's done right.
    You know, take your time and make sure it's the correct adapter and all that, maybe even try another adapter because it has to get a good seal, try it several ways if you can but if it still comes up 30 after you're pretty sure it is right then the engine is likely shot.

    There's no way to know for sure, but it's a pretty good indication, beyond doing a bleed down test, but that's pretty advanced.
    If it is shot, I would recommend either Northern Hydraulics if you have a local store, or smallenginewarehouse.com
    You're probably looking at $400, I would see about getting 12 - 13 hp's as well.
     
  10. oharek1

    oharek1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    I was able to get the mower running last week for a couple cuts. Lots of pulls on the cord.
    It was backfiring while idle but the backfire went away when I engaged the blades. I figured to use it as long as it would run because I am going to replace or overhaul the engine anyway.
    Saturday I was using it at my house and it was losing power and smoking. Now it is officially dead.
    Small engine warehouse has a 13 HP OHV briggs for $385. I can get away with not fixing it until I need it again in the spring so I was thinking of taking it apart to see what I find and make a decision to repair it or replace it.
    I'm not sure which way to go. I have never had this kind of problem before.
     

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