Briggs 17 hp twin flooding out

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Travis Followell, Jul 9, 2005.

  1. Travis Followell

    Travis Followell LawnSite Silver Member
    from KY
    Posts: 2,207

    model- 42A707
    type- 2653 E1
    code- 9803315A

    Its an opposed twin and it will run at a constant rpm but it runs rough like its flooding out and it's burning way too much gas and when I took the carburetor off there was a puddle of gas in the intake manifold. I put a carb rebuild kit in it last year and its done this ever since but its just got worse lately. The float and needle valve seem to be fine.
     
  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023


    Hold the float with your finger and thumb and briskly shake it and make sure it doesn't have fuel in it. Then reinstall it and hold the top upside down and make sure the float is parallel with the gasket surface. Actually it wouldn't hurt if it was just a little higher, That would lower the fuel level just a little.
    Also the brass seat insert is replaceable I have seen problems with these in the past. If the other two check fine this just may be the next step.
    Btw, You can purchase the needle valve separately to remove all doubt.
     
  3. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    The part number for the needle valve and seat is 394682.
     
  4. Travis Followell

    Travis Followell LawnSite Silver Member
    from KY
    Posts: 2,207

    About middle ways through the summer last year I put the rebuild kit in it and it came with a new needle valve and brass seat. I decided to put the new needle valve in it but the brass seat looked hard to get out so I left it alone. I've already checked the float and it doesn't have any fuel in it but i'll put it back on and check the position of it this afternoon when I get a chance. Thanks for the help.
     
  5. Travis Followell

    Travis Followell LawnSite Silver Member
    from KY
    Posts: 2,207

    How can I get the brass seat insert out? It seems to be in there pretty tight.
     
  6. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Tap the hole with a 1/4x20 tap, Get a 1/4 x2" screw thats threaded all the way and screw a nut on it then a 1/4 flat washer. The service manual says to use part#94047 fuel tank spacer and screw the assembly into the seat.
    Hold the screw head with one wrench while tightening the nut and it will jack it right out. I use a 1/2" long piece of steel brake line I had laying around in place of the tank spacer. To install the new one put a nut on the same screw or another then grind enough threads off so it will fit inside just a little ways and have the top touch the nut, Use this assembly to tap the new one in place.
    If I lost you along the way just shout back,I tried to find a on-line service manual to post this page but couldn't.
     
  7. Travis Followell

    Travis Followell LawnSite Silver Member
    from KY
    Posts: 2,207

    I got it tapped but how far do I need to screw the bolt into it? Do I just barely screw it in or do I screw it all the way in and then tighten the nut? I wanna make sure I do it right so I don't strip the threads. Also should the washer be resting on top the two little holes where the float pin goes through because thats a good size washer and it won't fit between there. Thanks for the help.
     
  8. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023


    Tap the old seat as deep as possible then snug the screw as deep as possible, And it sounds like you forgot to put the 1/2" long tubing on the screw for the washer and nut to rest on while tightening the nut.
    The tubing must be large enough for the old seat to pass through but small enough to fit between the float pin tabs.
    Jump back up top and reread the other post again,I know it can be confusing but I found no on-line Briggs service manuals to post the page but I'm sure you will get it done.
     
  9. Travis Followell

    Travis Followell LawnSite Silver Member
    from KY
    Posts: 2,207

    Well I got the new seat put in and put the carburetor back on but its still doing the same thing. Runs rough and when I engage the deck the rpm's drop quite a bit and there's a puddle of raw gas in the intake manifold. Its on a 42" murray lawn tractor.
     
  10. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,023

    Ok, From your discription lead me to believe it was a carb. problem, Thats one of the problems with this site we don't have the luxury of seeing or hearing these problems. Have you replaced the spark plugs ? Do this test;
    Leave the plug wire boots loose on the plug and start the engine give it about half throttle and with rubber handle pliers remove each wire one at a time and listen for a RPM change, You may have a dead cylinder which would also give the same symptoms. If you remove one of the wires and the engine dies that is the problem, Then leave that wire off and put a screwdriver in the wire on the dead cylinder and hold it near the head and check for spark.
    Post back your findings and we will go from there.
     

Share This Page