Broken Camshaft on a 20 h.p. OHV Liquid Cooled Kaw?????

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by Nitrousoxide764, Feb 15, 2004.

  1. Nitrousoxide764

    Nitrousoxide764 LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 24

    Ok, so my front deck John Deere F725 just wouldn't crank the other day. I notice the fuel filter is dry......so I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. Before I pull the pump, I take off a valve cover and spin the engine over. There is no valvetrain movement at all. So it has to be a broken camshft......Correct??? The machine has roughtly 2,000 hours on it. Anyone have any clues or experience with this engine before? How costly could this be to fix? How much other damage could there be as far as valve hitting pistons because of being out of time? Is this even an interfearance engine? So many quesitons.....please help. THANKS!
     
  2. UNISCAPER

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,426

    Nitrous:

    Kawasaki has had issues with camshafts turning into powder a few years back because they use compressed steel dust to make the cams rather than machined steel like Kohler uses.

    Can you pull the fuel pump and look in the hole with a fiber optics light to see if there is anything broken? Chaces are it is the actuator arm on the pump and not the cam.

    Dig into it and psot back when you get to the bottom of it...
     
  3. Nitrousoxide764

    Nitrousoxide764 LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 24

    Uniscaper, maybe you misunderstood my post. You see, I pulled off one valve cover today and spun the engine over for a while. I see no valves going up or down at all. This leads me to believe that the cam is not turning. Since the fuel pump rides on the cam (if the cam is broken) , that's why I'm seeing no fuel to the carb. A broken camshaft would cause multiple problems such as no fuel and no valvetrain movement. Please respond back. Thank you
     
  4. UNISCAPER

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,426

    Nitrous:

    I did misread your post...Must be my blonde hair acting up again....

    If you are seeing no movement, you either have a broken cam, or perhaps a stripped gear...Sounds like time to jurk the engine and split the case, but, at 2000 hours, what is next? If you have a decent set of cylinders and heads, I would ring it and replace the rods. That way you should be good for a while longer.

    I am not sure how much Kawasaki will charge for these parts. I do know that when one we had let go under warantee, they did not cover it, and i was young and stupid and bought parts... For $100.00 more I could have had a whole new engine...
     
  5. Nitrousoxide764

    Nitrousoxide764 LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 24

    Uniscaper, where is the best place to get parts from? Does anyone offer a total rebuild kit for this engine. Like gaskets, pistons, rings, bearings, etc. As you said, it's got alot of hours on it now, so I might as well do it right if the block is workable. Everytime I search for kawasaki parts online, all I get are places that sell complete engines, not rebuild kits. I'd like to attempt it myslef, I work part time at a machine shop to boot. Any feedback? Thanks
     
  6. UNISCAPER

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,426

    Nitrous:

    Short of finding a distributor through a local mower shop, I am not sure. The distributor or the dealer should be able to tell if they service the block, or you need to buy a new engine. We don't run any Kaweasakis because of the way they treated warrantee issues when we had them.
    Thier thing is to sell engines, not parts, as it has taken conseidrable lengths of time to obtain things other than what normally wears. In some instances, they offer assemblies only, such as short blocks, long blocks, etc. The reason was what I had mentioned earlier. Cost. The average shop looks at a job, adds labor to cost of parts, and finds it less expensive to replace engines. Therefore, the need for parts is not as great, so they figure why bother...It is very frustrating to say the least, as I prefere rebuilding over buying new, but, that is the way it is.
     
  7. Nitrousoxide764

    Nitrousoxide764 LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 24

    Uniscaper, I see your point on shops trying to push complete engines instead of selling parts. I still feel the need to do it myself instead of buying a whole new motor. That is if my block is not hurt too bad. I have a feeling this is gonna be expensive even if I do all the work. Definately a good learning experience if nothing else! I've never tackled an over head valve engine before. I appreciate all the advice. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. I ran out of daylight last night pulling the engine off the frame. The wiring harness is disconnected and the block is unbolted. Do you have any pointers on getting the main pulley off the crankshaft? This pulley won't pull through the frame of the deere. I won't have a chance to work on it again until this coming weekend.
     
  8. ducky1

    ducky1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 252

    Nitrous
    The last one I done the pulley just barely fit through the frame. You will probably find out it is a plastic gear that has stripped out on the cam. If you go new it will be steel. Not too bad to replace. Seemed harder to r&r the muffler and engine than to replace the cam. Be sure to replace the lower seal when you are there. Also good time to check the hydro pump belt. 2000 hrs aint too bad if it has had maintance. good luck
     
  9. ducky1

    ducky1 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 252

    Forgot something. You might want to check water pump for leaks while you have it out where you can at least see it.
     
  10. Nitrousoxide764

    Nitrousoxide764 LawnSite Member
    from Georgia
    Posts: 24

    Ducky, Thanks! Those are awesome tips. I'll make an update the end of this weekend...........hopefully.
     

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