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Brown Patch

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by ncturfgirl, Jun 11, 2005.

  1. ncturfgirl

    ncturfgirl LawnSite Member
    from nc
    Posts: 11

    Does anyone else seem to fight this year after year no matter what they do. It seems we have certain yards and year after year they still get brown patch no matter what we do. Tried cutting down on the nitro cut higher and water less and still it comes. Open to any suggestions :help:
  2. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956


    Welcome to the World of Rhizoctonia. Each year when you treat it you are only Suppressing the Brown Patch. It is still in the soil and when conditions are right, the population increases and you see the resulting damage.

    Prevention is the way to go. A good IMP program is about record keeping also. Document the lawns you have Brown patch on and give them a preventive treatment just before the conditions for Brown Patch arise. Read the label of the Fungicide you use, for prevention rates. Normally they are Half the Curative rate.

    Rhizoctonia solani is the most common variety of Brown patch. High temperatures will suppress it so you generally won't see a manifestation of Brown Patch in Summer heat of over 85 degrees day time temperature. It is still there and your turf is out competing it(out Growing it). It is generally in the Spring and Fall that the conditions are right for Brown Patch. How ever your areas climate or Variety of Rhizoctonia may be a little different. Once again IPM or BMP (Best Management Practices) should have record of where and when Brown Patch becomes active.

    Please don't take the following Personal. Many States Sell Pesticide Licenses in what I call Cracker Jack boxes. Maybe a two day training course at most. The lack of real knowledge is in Fact the Industries biggest problem. Sure LS and Other industry education helps to fill that void. But until the States make a real education mandatory for sitting for a real Pesticide knowledge test. The Industry will never be respected. we will always be looked upon as Lawn Boys.
  3. ncturfgirl

    ncturfgirl LawnSite Member
    from nc
    Posts: 11

    No offense taken. I feel we all need more knowledge and education that is why I am always taking continuing courses. However, depending on the instructor and their references we seem to get alot of conflicting information. I feel every region is different and that is not taken into consideration in these courses. I know the disease I am trying to treat I just feel there should be a better way to prevent it. I have kept good records on the yard in question it did not show till late July last year and here it is June 1st and it is showing. Depending on who you ask or what references you pull you get different information...nothing consistent.
  4. Ric

    Ric LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,956

    Turf Girl

    Mother Nature is a women, Need I say more?

    Having Not only gone back to school myself, I have done some student Teaching at College Level. Course are designed for General knowledge. Traditional College Education Teaches the Science of Horticulture Management not the "How To" The "How To" varies from one property to another let alone across the nation. Agronomy is not only the oldest science know to man, It is the most complex one. Variable constantly plague this science and no two people can agree to the actual best practice. Ask 2 PhD in this science for and answer and you will get at least 3 answers. Welcome to my world.
  5. marko

    marko LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 963

    NC turf girl,
    I have the same problem. Before going the preventative route, read up on measures that you can take to help minimize the damage (watering practices, fert practices, collecting clippings during out breaks, removing dew in the AM, etc). Like ric said, if you have several years history (day and night temps, rain fall, etc) you will get an excellent idea when to apply your preventative, if you decide to do so. I have had manageable control by proper watering, a light .5 lb nitrogen app for my spring round, followed by 1 lb N after temps get above 85 to help aid in recovery. I have found that no matter the education you try to give your customers, fungicide treatments will be your biggest sale (much like grub treatments if a customer has never had them before). Good luck and keep learning!
  6. ncturfgirl

    ncturfgirl LawnSite Member
    from nc
    Posts: 11

    Just want to say thanks for all the input and good luck to everyone fighting the battle.

    Talk to you Soon
  7. On cool season turf:
    Use fert with high % slow release
    fortified organic base fertilizer will help
    keep n around 2.5 to 3.5 lbs/m
    mow turf between 2.5 and 3 inch
    wait until soil is dried out, then irrigate
    Wet soil to little below the depth of roots
    light, frequent irrigation, brown patch loves it

    hope this helps
  8. B&B

    B&B LawnSite Member
    Posts: 57

    dethatching could help if there is a thatch buildup

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