Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Not to worry. Check out the archived thread of the Q&A with Ken Hutcheson, President of U.S. Lawns, and the LawnSite community in the Franchising forum .
Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by misterl, Apr 3, 2002.
Has anyone had any problems with brown patch? If so, how did you control it?
i use a full organic product followed my a fall aeration and overseed. fungicides are hard to sell due to double app's at $$$
Rhizococtonia solanui or Brown Patch is common on all turf grasses. Short answer is treat with systemic fungusicide about two week apart for best control. Aliette, Prodigy, or Cleary's 3336 However contact fundusicides will stop the spread but will not cure infected turf. This is a spring and fall fungus because it will cure self once tempeture goes over 85. To much nitrogen and water will bring it on, therefore slow release or organic fertilizers are a best management practice. Rhizonococtnnia type microcrobical are present in all soils but only when the conditions are right do they infect plants. The old disease triangle 1. weak host 2. presents of disease 3. condition right. Fungicides will knock it back but you are more than likely to have out breaks again in the same spot. Therefore a preventative treatment next fall and spring might be in order. Highly maintained turf is more likely to get it. Dr Vargas U of Mich is considered the expert on fungus check him out for more info on all fungus. Sorry I write this stuff off the top of my head and so can't give you website etc. I am getting more senior moment as the years go by, so sometimes I forget to include everything I should.
Most people get "BROWN-PATCH" from over-fertilizeration, OR poor IPM....
IE improper mowing,excessive "N", etc...
to say that "all" brown patch is fungi needing FUNGICIDE will kill the planet.
Stick it in you ear
Are you having the problem now or just discussing it?
groundsguy1970, while I don't have common problems with brown patch it does happen. Here with the temps and fescue it does not matter what you do. I am very conservitive on application of N and change my mowing practices when things are right for BP, it still happens. I don't care who you are, if you have 72+ degree nights over a period of time, late PM rain or irrigation, and fescure BP will happen.
Ya gotta admit ALLOT of "brown-patch" is self induced.....
RIC....I didn't mean to target YOU PERSONALY....sorry. That was a great post.
The "brown-patch" stories are starting to come in..... and I hear them and.........
The cultural pratices that discourage Brown Patch should always be addressed first. That said, moving a building to increase air cirulation is not an option so chemicals may still be desired by more affluent consumers. If that's what you have here then make sure of a couple thing. Moderate fertility. Goimng low N MIGHT reduce the incidenct of BP but many studies also point to the fact hungry turf doesn't recover fully or quickly so watch this practice. Letting cool season turf wilt a little before watering is helpful too, just don't go overboard.
DO NOT WAIT FOR SYMPTOMS TO APPEAR TO TREAT. If Brown Patch gets in front of a preventitive fungicide preogram, you'll end up doubling the rate just to check the spread. The affected turf won't grow back quickly either, so the client is unlikely to be satisfies.
Understand the life cycle of Rhizoctonia, pamper the turf, & WATCH THE WEATHER.
For the CONNECTICUT/ NEW YORK Metro Area on fertile & irrigated Bluegrass:
Night time average relative humidity added to the nightime low temperature is a good rule of thumb for BP & Pythium. If the 2 numbers combined exceed 150 for 2 days with a "muggy" forecast for the 3rd day, you're allready too late.
The option if not practicing IPM, is to indiscriminately blanket the turf with labeled fungicides every 14 days for the entire summer.
You almost need to treat a lawn for a year or two without fungicides before you can effectively treat for fungus disease utilizing IPM.
My 2 Cents,
PS Grass seed is cheaper than fungicides but I hate the look of declining turf too.
Some good Fungicides out there to treat Rhizoctonia solani but Tremor is right. Cultural practices are the key for control. Gotta keep the mower blades razor sharp as a ragged cut almost invites the pathogen to spread. Nightime watering is like throwing gas on a fire. Have used Clearys3336, Aliette,Touche,Bayleton, Tersan LSR,Mancozeb,Daconil 2787,PCNB, Heritage and a host of others that I can't remember. Heritage seems to have best curative/preventive control but is higher than a cats a$$. Buddy of mine told me about a fungicide that has same AI (and % AI) as Heritage but is much cheaper. Only problem is , it is only labled for sod prod. or ag. use. I may investigate the possibility of a "container swap." While I don't condone that kind of thing it may be my only viable alternative to selling my soul to Beelzebub for Heritage. Seems like cost/acre is around $350 and with my average sq ft at around 20,000 (with tons of those little 8000 sq ft'rs to bring down the average) I need a edge to be able to sell to people down here with those traditional, southern mega-properties.
In the FALL I will BLEACH decks between houses as part of my IPM program.