Building a Flatbed/Dovetail on F250 SRW HELP!!

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by CrewCutEnterprises, Feb 4, 2006.

  1. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    Here is a picture of what i have to work with, Sorry it is so hard to see its out of focus and now its dark outside.

    smallbed.jpg
     
  2. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    I want it to look like this, its member ant knees truck, built like the just mowing trucks.

    album_pic21.jpg
     
  3. lawnrangeralaska

    lawnrangeralaska LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 436

    I would want a 12 or 14 foot dove tail not a lil 8 or 6.5 foot bed
     
  4. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    Ok, So here are the dimensions....We will be running a 36" and 48" walkbehind on this truck. They will cut residentials 20 to 30 a day 5 days a week for about a 30 week season.

    Option 1
    8 ft long flatbed, 6.5' wide and 2ft dovetail with 5ft gate.

    Option 2
    9 ft flatbed, 7 ft wide and 3 ft dovetail with a 4ft gate.

    Option 3
    10ft flatbed7 ft wide and 4.5 high double folding gate, 9 ft total length to make up for lack of dovetail



    Im unsure if i want 18 inch mesh sides or stake sides. It will be used for mowing only during summer months. Snowplowing and snowblowing in the winter and leaf removal in the fall, to put on curb for our vac truck.
     
  5. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    Well, we have another crew with 16ft trailer so we have our large lots covered, and itwould be an 9 ft bed..
     
  6. Edgewater

    Edgewater LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 457

    What part do you need help with. If you do not have good fabrication skills, get one built. I have done a few flat beds. Adding a dove tail makes it more complicated. Steel is also not cheap.

    You will need at least the following.

    Arc welder, mig works better on the expanded metal, but I like a stick for the channel and angle.

    A good angle grinder and lots of cutting wheels. Get 3/32nd or 1/16, 1/8 are slow and you use them up for nothing.

    A chop saw is nice for cutting angles and square cuts.

    Lots of welding claps (ie vice grips)


    The basic design is two long sills that run fron to back. Then you put cross braces on top for your floor. Weld a frame around the outside of the cross braces. That frame is what makes the visible sides. Make sure you long sills are tied together in the front and use grade 8 or better bolts to the frame. If you get rear ended and the bolts shear, a beam that points toweard the cab with no cap ob the from will punch trough and the driver will no be around to tell the story.

    For the wiring, use agood conections and lights. Get a plug off a factory wiring harness in the scrap. That way if you sell the truck, you can put the bed back on and keep your flat deck.

    Oh yeah, you will need to compensate for the hump in the truck frame since it is not a chassis cab. the frame looks like this


    _____------_____________


    You can use steel or HARD WOOD, to make spacers between the frame rails and the truck frame.

    If there is anything else, let me know maybe I can help

    Adam
     
  7. Edgewater

    Edgewater LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 457

    I just saw you other posts.

    On a pickup, you can have no more than 7 feet plus a dove tail. The Cab Axle measure is too short. Any more, and you will stress the hell out of the frame and rear suspension, while unloading the steering tires, making it hard to stop and steer
     
  8. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    Im having one built, me and a friend.

    He has a miller matic 251 mig welder. metal blade chop saw, 9 and 4.5 inch grinders, clamps, oxy acedlin? cutter. We have welded stuff before but i dident know much about flatbeds... I looked at the work trucks and they use [ channel.

    I was thinking 3 inch [ channel down the frame, and 2 inch running across width wise, with 1/8 floor.

    And steel is very expensive.. I know, but I wanted to try this and not have to have a trailer anymore for this truck. As for mounting the body i was going to use large u bolts, 8 or 6. like they do on the chassis cabs.
     
  9. Grass Cake

    Grass Cake LawnSite Senior Member
    from Zone C
    Posts: 299


    Are you wanting to do this yourself?

    http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=128815

    I built this one.

    Grass Cake
     
  10. CrewCutEnterprises

    CrewCutEnterprises LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 893

    Its an 8 ft bed, I figured a 9 foot flat and 2.5 dovetail would be ok. It has the towing package so it have overload springs. Ive put 2500 lbs in it in addition to the 800 lb dump insert. So i figure the bed will weigh about 1300 lbs and i can put about 1500 lbs inside the bed safelay, as long as the weight is on or infront of the axel, not on the dovetail... i should be ok
     

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