Building a shelf into dump trailer...so I

Discussion in 'Organic Lawn Care' started by Rick13, May 10, 2013.

  1. Rick13

    Rick13 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 408

    Hi wiffysparks....yeah the Ecolawn hopper is higher than the dump bed....do to push it off the rear would not work.

    Now I do what you suggested... I'll shovel out the rear, then lift the dump bed to move the compost to the rear, open the gate and start shoveling again. I use a 29" shovel and it fills the Ecolawn fairly quick. But I've seen adam.neusbaum use a shelf in his dump truck bed. So I was wanting something like that....but I don't want to wield or drill holes through my dump bed.

    Adam said he can unload his dump truck in 1 1/2hrs. Me....depends on how much I have but its longer. Just wanting to speed up my "Loading" times.

    I am slammed with a ton of yards to do....and when it rains here, the compost gets really heavy, so I have to wait for a few sunny days to get some of the moisture out of the compost.

    Dump Trailer Compost 1.jpg

    Dump Trailer Compost 2.jpg

    Dump Trailer Compost 3.jpg
     
  2. whiffyspark

    whiffyspark LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,099

    What if you build your shelf and leave the doors closed. This way the doors can help support the shelf.

    Make the shelf extend out past the doors a few inches so you can shovel off te compost. It's much easier just to be able to push material
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  3. Rick13

    Rick13 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 408

    With the doors closed then the Ecolawn can't get its hopper under the shelf. Unless I extend the shelf....but when I'm hauling the compost....my tarp won't cover the shelf. And if you don't cover when hauling....you can get a big fine. So I don't think that would work.

    But running a bar across the rear of the dump trailer with plywood going down making a ramp (and getting support from the bar) would work. Then I can get the Ecolawn under the lip and fill the hopper quicker.
     
  4. adam.neusbaum

    adam.neusbaum LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 623

    Just stumbled across your thread Rick-
    The 2" square tubing is a great idea but if you could do what was suggested and leave the doors shut you are better off 'cause they act like an instant brace & stop & the only thing you'd need is 3 knee braces, one in the center & 2 outters.
    Or if keeping the doors closed really isn't an option you might utilize those D ring anchors there by the front edge of the ramp. Maybe put a 7/16"eye-bolt thru the 3/4" plywood 6 inches back & near the side edge & use those quick connect snap rings with a very short chain to keep it from sliding back. By having the eyebolts higher up it'd promote the front edge of the plywood to stay down. Also when unloading it's good to just pull off the top layer & let it trickle down the base layer which is layered over the ramp & trailer floor. This way you have les risk of the material trying to plow its way under the ramp edge.
    As you know, Lawnsite & tractorbynet are great places for advice on things like this.
    I was reading these replies for a better way myself, great posting & nice editing on those pics by the way. How'd you do that, thru an ipad?

    I recently wanted to replace my dumptruck floor so I decided to just go with pt 3/4" plywood @ $35 sheet instead of steel 'cause this way I was able to build the hinged adjustable ramp right into the floor. Not like I'm hauling anything but compost anyway.
    We're just using the 3/8" rope ratchet to support the sides instead of a knee brace.

    So if we were going shopping together I'd look for:
    Plywood sheet & have them cut the width for you there.
    (4) 1/2" x 3.5" eyebolts with fender washers, lockwashers & nuts.
    (2) heavy duty Rope-Ratchets.
    Then just plan on cutting a 2x6 into a knee brace for the center & wahala.

    2013-05-16_08-02-15_601.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  5. adam.neusbaum

    adam.neusbaum LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 623

    Concerning moisture levels- It's most beneficial if you pre-purchase 100 yards from your supplier & have them put your pile off to the side somewhere so you can get a roll of black plastic to cover it with. This is also helpful to prevent a shortage during your busy season, which I've experienced before. If it's moist before tarping just tip the loader guy & ask if he'd on occasion turn your pile to help it dry out before tarping.
     
  6. adam.neusbaum

    adam.neusbaum LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 623

    At the beginning of a job I'd tell my helpers that our goal was to get the truck to full-tilt as soon as possible which encouraged gravity assist. I was always having to ask my dad (shown in the pics) to keep his feet on the ground & use the dump feature to our advantage & safety. That plywood gets pretty slippery and it wasn't necessary for him to be up there shoveling anyway. It's easier to pull the material to you than push or shovel that dead weight. This is from experience, lots of experience.

    Rick-
    The one thing you will hate is if you have to take the ramp in & out each day by yourself. Hopefully you'll be able to leave it in for long durations besides clean-outs. Even with my skid-steer it was a pain loading it alone. Maybe with two knee braces at the 1/3 & 2/3 point you could center the Ecolawn between them & stradle the ramp on it to remove/install & just change the angle of the trailer to assist.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013

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