Canal/Lake Water

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by Outdoor Services, Aug 6, 2004.

  1. Outdoor Services

    Outdoor Services LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    I'm going to be putting in a system using the water out of the canal in the back yard. Should I be concerned about dirty water?? I've notice 98% of the neighbors, (fairly newer homes) have impacts instead of rotors to cover the open areas. What are your thoughts?
    I'd was thinking of using Rain Bird 5000 Series, or Hunter PGP rotors. What are your thaughts?
    Is there a wiring diagram out there for installing the timer,pump,and switch/relay pump system?
    Any help and thoughts are very welcome!:)
    Thank you!!!!!!!!:) :)
  2. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

    How dirty are we talking? A 5000 will pass fine particles along without problems, something you should be able to achieve with a good filter setup.

    How large is the canal and how fast does it move?
  3. Outdoor Services

    Outdoor Services LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    The water is cloudy enough where you cant see the bottom, like most muddy bottom rivers/canals here in lower Michigan.
    The water is 4-5 feet deep now, and it's going to be dredged this fall too for more depth. This canal was engineered well, it has good circulation so it doesn't't get green slime. It gets fresh water from springs, plus It is only a 1/4 mile in from Lake St Clair.
    I was thinking of using a Wayne 1.5 horse pump and a well point in the canal for filtration.
  4. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

    Unless your goal is to not have to worry about a clogged filter, I'd stay far away from a well point. Not nearly enough filtration.

    Rig up a 40 gallon bigfoot filter with clean, fine pea gravel away from the bank and bottom. Something that can be adjusted might be in your best interests.
  5. Outdoor Services

    Outdoor Services LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    What the heck is a bigfoot filter????:eek:
  6. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

  7. Oldtimer

    Oldtimer LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,458

    Use a 1.5hp submersible pump. Trench into the lake at a 45 degree angle and try to set the pump in at least 4 feet of water. Turn the well casing up 90 degrees for 3 to 4 feet, drill 3/8" holes in it (lots of holes) and wrap with plastic window screen material. Use stainless hose clamps to hold the mesh and be sure to cap the pipe. This will give 25gpm with the pressure to run any heads you want to use.

  8. Outdoor Services

    Outdoor Services LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 283

    For staters this is an upper end neighborhood, with seven foot high steel sea walls. There are many 40' crusers going up and down this canal.
    There is no room for barrel filled pea garavel filter, and/or submercialbe pumps. Let alone access to the water over the darn sea wall in the fall to pull all that crap out so the ice doesn't take in out to the lake.
    So, back to the point - will cloudy water clog up valves, and rotors.
    It's cloudy due to very fine partical of brown silt on the bottom being mixed up by boat traffic.
    If rottors can become cloged am I better to use impacts??
  9. Rotor-Man

    Rotor-Man LawnSite Member
    Posts: 126

    Just completed repair job of replacing a pump, pumping out of a lake and converted to city water use. If you don't know how to wire a pump and pump start, hire an electrican so that it will be done correctly. Doesn't matter what brand or type of head you use, it will invaribly become clogged with silt, sand,weeds,etc. It doesn't matter to me if it's a HIGH end neighborhood or a blue-collar neighborhood where I'm doing a job, do it the right way or not at all!
  10. Grassmechanic

    Grassmechanic LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,697

    Outdoor - Go to John Deere Landscapes, they will have the correct style of filter that will allow you to use canal water. Almost every account that I service has an irrigation system that draws from a lake, canal, or river. My experience is that impacts are better than geardrives for non-potable water. Geardives wear out as quickly as a few seasons from the solid particles in the water. Also, some valves work better than others with non-potable water. The best valve I've found is the brass Rainbird EFB-CP valve. I have some of these in service for close to 20 years without ever having a problem with them. The drawback is that they are very expensive.

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