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Changing Blades

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by echo8287, Mar 28, 2008.

  1. echo8287

    echo8287 LawnSite Member
    from Ga
    Posts: 112

    I just changed my blades on my TT today for the first time. I put some new high lift blades on it to use with the bagger. I then went and tried the new blades out. They sucked better than the standard blades BUT I got a lot of blow out in front of the deck that I didn't get with the standard blades> gassing me out. Do I need to raise,lower, or put the front plate in the middle postion to help prevent this ? or is it inevitable. Any suggestions?

    One other question> Getting the bolts loose to change the blades. I don't know who put them on, and with what, but 2 of them were hell to get loose. I had a snap on wrench on the top wedged against the frame and 1/2" breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater pipe on it to get them loose. Surely there is a better way. I tried a 1/2" Igersol Rand(135 psi) impact and it wouldn't do it. To all those using a Dewalt battery impact driver I would have been laughing at you even trying that. I cleaned them up on a wire wheel and sprayed them with some oil so maybe not so bad next time. Anybody use some big plastic washers on this to keep them from getting galled up so bad? Any other tips?
  2. CrimsonLawnCare

    CrimsonLawnCare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 95

    to loosen the bolts for our mowers we use a Husky air impact wrench :) works great you should try it
  3. CFB

    CFB LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 515

    So how long did those blades go without ever being removed? Sounds to me like you had them on for a long time. Those guys need to be sharpened....often.
  4. topsites

    topsites LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 21,653

    That's how I always did it.
    Just be dang careful, always.

    I never found it.

    Yup, I know all about this, too.
    Oh yes, good times, good times.

    It's not what the gun or the tank is rated at, it's what the regulator is set to AND the pressure on the outlet end of the hose...
    Most regulators are set to 90 psi, and 90 psi is the recommended MAX psi and you're not supposed to turn it past that.

    Unfortunately the air in the hose has to travel from the tank TO the gun...
    As soon as we squeeze the trigger, psi drops at the outlet.
    It's like, the pressure is enough for about the first split second, then it drops off and I ain't got squat.
    What's happening is the gun releases air from the outlet, now the tank is feeding out air into the inlet as fast as it can, but in the time it takes for the air to refill on the one end what the other is losing, it's not enough to keep 90psi in the line...
    Not sure what it drops to, but drop it does, just inside of the line itself, pita.

    That having been said, I can not recommend you do this because you will void your tool warranty and shorten its lifespan by doing so, but I keep my regulator turned to between 110-120 psi.

    Then, ALWAYS tighten the bolt/ nut with minimum torque setting and just tack in on there, this takes practice.
    Most air tool users hold that gun onto the nut until every last inch of pressure is in there.
    Don't, just tack it on there, 1-2 'pops' that's it.
    Then to loosen you might need the max. torque setting, but always tighten them easy.
    The first few times double check the tightness manually, until you get the hang of it.

    When loosening initially, allow the pressure to build back up in the line between squeezes of the trigger.
    You can hear it 'hissing' if you let go, that is, if it's not coming off...
    I let it rest a few seconds, then hit it again, keep doing that, 3-4 tries should get it off.

    I also oil my tools heavily, much past what that little inline oiler can do.
    Manually I squeeze oil into my tools, frequently.
    I get 1-2 years use out of them, some less.

    But I don't have the not enough psi problem...
    Most of the time my blades come off, that's not to say I don't know a few choice words fitting what we speak of.
    Your choice, I can't tell you what to do.
  5. Happy Frog

    Happy Frog LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,224

    I always use a torque wrench to put them on (84 ft/lbs) so it's not a problem to take them off: hold the blade with one hand and pull on the wrench with the other, simple... :drinkup:
    This way, I do not stress the bolts or the blades.
  6. Nosmo

    Nosmo LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,216

    Had the same problem with my tank the first time I took the blades off. Used a 4-foot cheater pipe to get them loose.

    Removing them is easy now - when tightening I use a 3/4" drive ratchet and put enough pressure on the nut to let it make a "popping sound".

  7. Charles

    Charles Moderator Staff Member
    Posts: 7,879

    I bought some bolt grease from the dealer and put it on as soon as the bolts look dry. No problems after that. I use a air wrench so they don't come loose.
    Your deck doesn't seem level or the shoot is being blocked and can't handle the power of the highlifts. Really, high lifts make for a better looking cut. YOu dont have to lower the deck as much either and save wear and tear.
  8. Atlantic Lawn

    Atlantic Lawn LawnSite Senior Member
    Male, from Outer Banks NC
    Posts: 939

    Just snug down your blades, not over tightening them, if you change daily. I've never used plastic washers before. We use air for removal and replacement.
  9. hackitdown

    hackitdown LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,505

    I had a super tight nut on a Great Dane when it came from the factory. I brought it back and made the dealer loosen it.

    They are never a problem when you do it yourself. I spin them on with a cordless impact, then snug them to 110 lbs with a hand torque wrench. They come right off the next time...110 lbs is easy to remove, especially with an impact wrench.
  10. mowerbrad

    mowerbrad LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,273

    I have never had a hard time getting the bolts off on any of my mowers. I will use a 2 foot breaker bar and haven't had any problems removing bolts yet.

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