Changing/sharpening blades

Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by Joel B., Jun 27, 2002.

  1. Joel B.

    Joel B. LawnSite Senior Member
    from MN
    Posts: 458

    How do you change/sharpen blades on your big mowers? I have to either drive up on ramps and lie on the ground under the tractor or take off the whole deck to change/sharpen blades. Is there an easier way?


    Joel B.
  2. 65hoss

    65hoss LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,360

    I don't know what kind of mower your talking about, but I hang the Lazer off the side of the trailer gate and easily change them. My cub cadet garden tractor I use a floor jack to get it up and then an air impact to take them off.
  3. Craig Turf Management

    Craig Turf Management LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 354

    For walk-behind units, I lift the front of the mower, and put the anti-scalp roller in the front of the deck on a jack-stand. My mowers are balanced in such a way that I can lift the front of the deck with one hand.
    I drive my rider up on a ramp. The kind designed for automotive use. I drive just one of my front casters up on one ramp. This gives me plenty of room to work.
    Bill Craig!
  4. Lawn-Scapes

    Lawn-Scapes LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,810

    I use a 3.5 ton floor jack. It gives almost 20" of clearance.. which is more than enough. I keep it in my enclosed trailer so I can change any where.. any time.
  5. dgrazdude

    dgrazdude LawnSite Member
    Posts: 7

    Jungle Jim's makes a real nice jack called a jungle jack. It lifts the mower easily and gives plenty of clearance. It costs about 130.00. You can check it out on the internet.
  6. Lbilawncare

    Lbilawncare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,116

    We use an engine hoist to change the blades on our dixie choppers. The chain hooks easily around the front "bumper" & it raises high enough to scrape the deck if we need to. It is also handy for the walk-behinds, changing clutches, motor bolts, etc is easier.
  7. mikal

    mikal LawnSite Member
    Posts: 42

    To sharpin, I use a 4.5 inch angle grinder and then lightly and fast run the blade on a bench grinder ( both sides of the blade sometimes because a lip can form underneith ) Plus keep water handy to cool off the metal and then balance it. To take them off I throw down a 4X4 piece of wood along a curb and then ride my cub up on it.
  8. Phishook

    Phishook LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,143

    In the shop I use an engin hoist. On the job, I run one side of the mower up the ramp, leaving the other side hanging off.

    To sharpen I use a 4 1/2" sanding disk on a hand grinder with a rubber disk behind it. Works good to keep them sharp; kind of hard to get a straight edge on a really bad blade.
  9. SLS

    SLS LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Mars
    Posts: 1,540

    Jungle Jack to lift ZTR and walkbehind and good ol' bench grinder to sharpen the blades.
  10. Bushman

    Bushman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 20

    For the Exmarks we drive one front wheel up the trailer tailgate (with the mower back tires solidly on the ground, to the side and brake engaged) Plenty of clearance and no way for anything to slip and drop. (The Walkers have tilt-up decks)
    If the bolt threads are kept in good condition, they should just spin on and off with the wrench used only for torqueing. If not consider buying new bolts or a tap and die set to clean up the old ones.
    We currently use a bench grinder with a water bucket to keep the blades cool, but are considering a commercial blade grinder. Has anyone else made the move? How much faster and better are the commercial grinders?

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