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Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by 02DURAMAX, Jul 31, 2008.
Just way too funny.
Ha! to great!
After seeing that and this I would never own a Tundra.
I like Chevys just fine (I own one) but the traction video is stupid and pointless. All the ramp test points out are the benefits of either a locking or limited slip differential. The Chevy obviously has an LS diff, and the Toyota does not. A Tundra with the optional locker would drive right up that ramp, and a Chevy without one would sit and spin. It has nothing to do with the truck brand.
As far as driving through that ditch, same thing. Since the front wheels of the Toyota are not spinning at all, it's obvious that 4WD is not engaged. Since the truck has an open rear diff, 4WD would be necessary to get through. A truck with a locker would probably make it in 2WD.
My soundcard is out on my comp, so I wasnt sure if anything may have been described. I am a HUGE Chevy fan, but also noticed that the Chevy had a LS rear at least, and obviously the tundra didnt. Unfair to say the least.
The Tundra comes standard with a Limited Slip Differential as does the Chevy. The difference is that the Tundra (according to their website: http://toyotatundra.com/tundra/features.html?trim=8245) does not even have the option for a Locking Rear. The Chevy, on the other hand, does come with a locking rear.
And here are a few other videos of why I wouldn't own a Tundra. These have nothing to do with the differential but more to do with the frame.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRfE_XAk2mE&NR=1 (around 3 minutes is the testing)
Chevy for me.
Hmmm interesting. Guess things change. Chevy used to offer the G-80 limited slip differential as an option (that if you put any power to wards, it blows up) and most Toyotas Ive been in have the electric locking rear as an option thats a true locker, not just a limited slip.
Ive found almost all the weak links in the 1/2 ton Chevy I think lol. Transmission is made from paper mache (on #8 right now. Finally found a good aftermarket one), the rod bolts like to break right about 6000 RPM in turn sending connecting rods and pistons out the side of the engine block (mine now has the 6.0 with different rod bolts) The rear ends cant handle 400RWHP on a daily basis (blew 2 of them), but its hard to beat teh ride, and itll now pull anything I hook it to.
If you ever have trouble with rod bolts again, try some ARP bolts. They are pretty expensive but they are literally the best of the best out there. Guys who build motors that handle 900+rwhp put them in their cars. In fact, a good friend of mine from Auburn (I give him hell about it all the time ) is building his turbo Mustang for 1,000rwhp and is putting the ARP bolts in it to hold it all together.
I think the problem is the driver. easy on the vehicle.