Hi all. As I see this as a recurring problem all the time (and I noticed a few threads with it as well), I thought I would share my info and opinions on the subject. Maybe this post will become "sticky", maybe not. 1) - Spray cleaners in an aerosol can DON'T WORK. The chemicals in the product are not strong enough to clean all the junk out of the small passages. Keep some on hand anyway. More on this later. 2) - DON'T use picks, pins, wire or torch-tip cleaners on the small passages. Those things are precision drilled (sometimes with a laser). If you make them larger, your equipment won't run correctly. The first step to not haing the problem with carburetors is (you guessed it) FUEL. Gasoline is not gasoline anymore, but a mixture of gasoline, chemicals, extenders and additives. Blame the politicians. But, that's another thread. What we can do about it, is USE STABILIZER. Put it every can or tank of fuel you buy. Put it in at the pump if you can. Don't wait a month, the fuel will be junk by then. I have spoken to a number of people in the repair business (including engine rep. guys), and we are all of the opinion that fuel starts to degrade the day you buy it (oxidization), and will be useless between 30-60 days thereafter. If you must store your fuel in cans (tanks, whatever), make sure they are NOT open to the air. What I'm saying is put the caps back on and make sure they are tight. The alcohol in the fuel is a moisture magnet. Ever get water in a fuel can and wonder how the hell it got to be so much? Alcohol is pulling moisture out of the air and into your tank. Metal cans aggravte the condensation problem. If you get to the step where you need to clean the carb, don't go halfway and think it will work. Do the job once, the right way. It will save you time and aggravation later. Turn off your fuel spigot or remove the fuel from your tank. Remove the carb from the engine. Gotta be done. Wether it takes 5 minutes or an hour. If you are going to do it yourself, disassemble and remove as many plastic parts as you can and ALL RUBBER/VINYL parts. If the inside of the carb is coverd in a white powder and the metal looks pitted at all, junk the carb and get a new one. It's oxidizing, and it won't stop once it starts. If you are bringing the carb to a dealer to do it, for God's sake, have the numbers of your machine and engine on hand. Without numbers, the carb is just so much paperweight. A Product I have used and has never failed me for cleaning carbs is HYDRO-SEAL II from the Gunk company. It comes in a 2 gallon bucket with a dunk seive. It's a mild acid (very mild) that will strip just about anything off your carb, including paint. Put the parts in the seive and let it sit for about an hour. Remove the parts from the Hydro Seal and spray the hell out of it with the aerosol cleaner that you have now. Get into all the passages with the spray. Install your carb kit. DON'T PLAY AROUND WITH THE OLD PARTS. Putting a kit in is the only way to go. That being said, sometimes a kit is not economically feasable, or even available (Honda is notorious for not having carb kits). Buy individual parts if you think it's worth it. Some kits cost just as much as a new carb. If it's within a dollar range that you can handle, just replace the carb. Reassemble your stuff, fill it up with (stabilized) fuel and go. Another thing to do if you can is put a fuel shut-off on the equipment if it doesn't have one. Nothing worse than pulling a carb and getting gas all over yourself or on the ground. Not to mention wasting money on spilled fuel. If you got this far, thanks for listening and good luck rebuilding.