Climbing systems

Discussion in 'Tree Climbing, Pruning, Felling' started by Guest, Nov 3, 2008.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    I haven't seen anyone talking about climbing systems they use yet. Lets start with systems used on pruning, including tree access and working the tree. Pictures and/or diagrams are always a help. Lists of tools and equipment needed should also be included for the benifit of all. Oh dont forget any little tricks you might have to make life easyer.
     
  2. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    VT is great. I use a modification learned at a Mark Chismom class. It is very tempermental though. Length, number of wraps, and type of cordage used, and its capatibility with the main climbing line all play a key role in how responsive the knot is. I use the micro mouse pully with mine so that I have one attachment point to my saddle and both lines stay tight. And the knot stays up in front of you instead of falling down between you legs. YOu have to be careful with the upper biner though it catches the top of the knot sometimes and it does not hold:eek: I combat that problem with a geko biner on top. The knot doesnt get inside it. :laugh:
     
  3. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    I have been trying to get pics of several systems I would like to share... But I have been tooooo busy. Recent storms have loaded me up with work. And I guess the ressesion hasnt got here yet because people are still calling to get their trees taken care of. (food for the week or my tree in the front yard????????) I will be doing crane work this weekend and will have my part time photographer (wife) on site taking pics. Hope to have a few pics sunday or monday.
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    Just going to insert my two sence here... Old school is great. I use it once in a blue moon, when I need to double croch and I aint got the gear I need to do it the easy way. Im not trying to piss anyone off :D. But there is a reason why old school arborists dont hold up (Treevet you are the exception). Most old arborists I have spoken too or worked with all have aillments. Back, knees, and anything else that could hurt. Most of the break down and cant do it or even keep up. (treevet i did say you were the exception). My old boss was 55 at the time and it was funny to watch him work. Old school all the way, and just old. The guy had every aillment there is. I attribute that to doing the work the only way he knew how, the hard way. There are many easyer ways of doing our work then the OLD way. He was just toooo pig headed to try something new. We are just trying to help out, make your evenings more enjoyable (less painful) (treevet excluded of course). One last note, anyone got the name of one world champion in the last 10 years that won the championship on a strait tautline old school set up. Or even a blakes hitch with a split tail. THERE IS A REASON. The newer ways are MORE efficiant.

    Excuse the spelling*trucewhiteflag*
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    TreeVet,
    I guess a little explanation is nessicary with that pic. Im sorry I didnt before. The sysem pictured is called a "Monkies Tail" (the short piece of line with the ring). The rope is passed around the tree (for me right to left), the ring is passed over the rope back the right side (you could put it there to begin with), the short tail is used to tie a friction hitch (mine is a taught line) on the rope on the left side. Now you can run the rope through the taught line and leave a long tail so it dangles down to your next work location. Your climing hitch (for me a VT) is below the ring. You can now decend to your next work position, cut your notch (if not working with a crane). Now you can pull the ring down too you with the tail you left. Sinch it back to the tree, advance you climbing knot, put your lanyard around and you have 2 points of attachment for your cut. This system allows for several things; 1). If something were to happen to you the rescue is much easyer. your system is set up, your rescuer has only to come up, tie himself in, remove your lanyard and run his and your system. 2). If working with a crane you can set this up once and work the whole trunk. Just keep pulling it down to you. Yea if you wanna spike down each pick more power too ya but this is easy. And you can have this set up and ready before the crane gets back to you. Set your slings and down you go. No need to tie into the false crotch on the crane. 3). If no crane. You can be attached above when makeing your notch on larger wood. Just remember to pull it down too you before you cut the piece off.
    P.S. There is NO such thing as a rutine crane removal. You have the crane there for a reason. Somethings not rutine. Anyway when tree work becomes rutine its time to get out of the buis. You are gonna get hurt!!!
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    FYI-I have been in the buis for nearly 11 years now. I know not as long as you, but there arent many, your age, still in the buis. The first 7.5 years of that 11 was spent with or on a crane. Ive seen many difficult removals, many easyer ones, but I still DO NOT consider crane work routine. Routine to me = what I call smash and dash. Routine = Complacency (sp). Complacency gets people hurt. But I guess youve been in long enough you know everything. Well Ill let that go before I piss someone off.

    On to double choking... For all of those who dont know everything... My reasoning... What happens if one sling breaks... You are likely dead... I had one sling break once... Guess what saved my ass... The other. Another question... What happens if one choke point breaks... either the other one follows or the crane gets shock loaded (by the way shock loading crane = reallllllllllly bad)... Also had several rigging points fail (yes my mistake) in one instance a lilac bit the dust. In another I almost bit it. Double choke and spread them when you can, sh*t happens you dont want to die.

    If Obsessive compulsive = taking my time so that I have time later. I guess you are right. But Im not going to die in a tree.
     
  7. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    Wow its been a couple years since I started this thread. Looking back I have changed things up a ton in the last 4 years.

    Lucky, that is a great system to work off. I worked off it for years, I even find myself going back to it as a second tie in every now and again.
    Do you store your rope in a bag or do you coil? Only reason I ask is sometimes coiling (depending on the direction of coil) can work against your blakes (which twists the opposite direction) and cause a serious twist problem. I found the VT does the same thing. Because the blakes and VT wrap all in the same direction when tied so they put kind of a cork screw effect on the rope.
     
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    I have played with many knots, and everytime I tie a strait up VT I get a twisty rope. I currently us the Michoucan (I know thats knot spelled right). It basicly has a half hitch at the bottom which seems to stop the twisting.
    You are absolutely right about the write offs... Thats how I get all my toys for climbing, confince the wife "we can write it off". :laugh::walking:
     
  9. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/With-Handle_2/Upper-Kit-1528

    It looks like you can buy the kit to convert 2 CMI acsencers here

    But then they say they are out of production here

    http://wesspur.com/ascenders/marbar.html

    And if you are an Ebayer

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BUCKING...039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c04afdeff

    Both climbing systems are great. Ddrt started our industry and was used for many many years by a lot of people. Its now just been a couple years since SRT (work positioning) has really taken off. Now with your mar bars I hope you are backing them up properly. If done right the system works great. I dont use it very often because I climb SRT most of the time now.
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest
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    Well no responses.

    I use a split tail system - Blakes with a micro pulley

    Anyone use a VT here?

    Interested to here some feed back on it.

    Mike
     

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