Clover problem

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by cross1933, Jun 27, 2008.

  1. cross1933

    cross1933 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 165

    I have a small patch and a larger patch of clover in my yard. What is available from one of the local stores,( Home Depot,Lowes,Menards or Ace Hardware), to get rid of the clover?
     
  2. Rtom45

    Rtom45 LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 456

    Look for anything labeled for broadleaf weed control, look for clover specifically on the label.
     
  3. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    Here's my personal favorite for clover, which is something I think was really originally designed for monocots like crabgrass, while seeding :

    http://www.montereychemical.com/label/Drive75DF.pdf

    I think Lesco-eaten-by-a-Deere sells it in a smaller-use size that would make sense for a homeowner to buy.
     
  4. Capemay Eagle

    Capemay Eagle LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,750

    Clover is apparently a lack of Nitrogen.

    I myself got rid of a huge patch of clover that I have had for a few years by just using a new brand of weed and feed. The stuff I used this year seemed to attack all the clover. The only bad part is now I have a big hole with no grass where the clover was..
     
  5. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    You're looking at the concept of "weed control" from the perspective of a glass "half empty".

    You've got to constantly remember that the #1 defense against weeds in any turfgrass situation doesn't come from any bag, bottle or jar of herbicide.

    It comes from the establishment of a stand of turf, that is nurtured so well, that it would literally crowd out any chances of weeds to get established from the get-go !!

    This is called the 'cultural' approach to weed control by those at many state colleges.
    I like to call it "weed competition"...because that's what it is.


    Each piece of ground have different levels of difficulty.
    And if you're trying to 'fix' old problems...like what you're doing with clover patches...you'll often invite other types of weeds in, just to watch the clover's funeral. :laugh:

    Your kind of problem is why I try to coax my customers into waiting until mid-late August or so... to do any major lawn renovation / slice seeding / aeration work.

    That way...if there is either some Roundup or selective herbicide work to be done on some 'undesirables' on the lawn, by then the summer annuals like crabgrass, foxtail, spurge & purslane have pretty much already gone by the wayside in this climate, at least in terms of worrying about much if any competition with the seeding work.

    ...unlike what would typically happen in the spring !

    :cry:
     
  6. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    If the turf was too thin to begin with...you no doubt gave weeds like clover a foot in the door, and a chance to crowd out turf neighboring it !

    It's a JUNGLE out there !!!!

    :laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:

    :waving:
     
  7. Heatman

    Heatman LawnSite Member
    Posts: 47

    Good info Marcos. I cut my lawn at 4" and haven't had to use crabgrass preventer for the past few years. A healthy lawn chokes out the weeds. As a homeowner I have found to control the few weeds I do get this is the best product to use. Around here you can get it at the local Tractor Supply store. http://www.pbigordon.com/professional/page.php?id=293
     
  8. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    Speed Zone's a good product.

    If you click on the 'specimen label' button...you'll notice that it is largely an ester, or 'alcohol-based' product.

    That in itself is not a bad thing...But you have to understand a little about the differences between amine and ester selective broadleaf herbicides, before you'd try to go out and 'broadcast' Speed Zone all over your stessed-out dormant lawn.... during, say, a 90 degree day in July.

    Ester = alcohol based
    Amine = water based

    Ester (alcohol based) herbicides are designed to break into the cuticle of each individual weed's tissue MUCH more rapidly than what water based amines do.

    That's why esters (generally) are promoted in the professional industry, for COOLER SEASON weed control, during the (somewhat early spring and mid-late fall) periods where the metabolism of the given plants haven't 'speeded up' enough, or, likewise have 'slowed down' too much....for the much less expensive (but yet normally just as effective) AMINES to do their job.


    But don't get me wrong !
    This is not to say that you can't use selective esters in the warmer weather !
    You just have to make sure that you're applying it in between thorough waterings, and that you're not applying it to stressed out dormant turf at all.

    You certainly should get good control. :)
    But you're probably leaving some chips on the table....price wise.
    As long as you're happy, though...that's all that matters.

    Stay out from 'under' overhanging bushes when you're spraying esters in hot weather, because it can VOLATILIZE and damage the ornamental's leaves, literally, without you even TOUCHING the foliage with a drop of spray !!

    You'll also see from the label that Speed Zone contains some Dicamba.
    Because of this, stay a healthy distance away from the driplines of flowering dogwoods, eastern redbuds, and any types of cherry.
     

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