Commercial 21" Toro

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by All_Toro_4ME, Sep 21, 2007.

  1. 44DCNF

    44DCNF LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,460

    For the cable adjustment, turn the black adjuster that is around the cable as it passes through the deck bracket (at rear of belt guard), clockwise 1/2 turn. Pull the mower backwards and pull the drive bar toward the handle. The wheels should stop freewheeling when the bar is about 1" from the handle.

    Did the dealer adjust the cable? Did they open and regrease the trans of just the zerks?
     
  2. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    If there is a jumpy problem and this dealer couldn't find out why, I think you need to find another dealer with qualified people. Or one that knows how to pick up the phone and call Tech support.


    Post me the model and serial numbers so I can SEE your exact unit.
     
  3. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    If the internal gear in the rear wheels and pinions appear normal, I'd check the clutch washer and friction washer that engage the key inside the pinions. If the rear pivot arms don't get proper grease, the clutch washer(white) can get hot enough that it will melt and insufficient friction between it and the friction washer(black) will cause sporadic key engagement. If this condition occurs in all gear ranges this is what I would suspect. If the jumping occurs in only one gear range then I would look at a broken tooth on that particular gear inside the gear case.

    As mentioned earlier, check for a chunk out of the drive belt.

    Dutch
     
  4. All_Toro_4ME

    All_Toro_4ME LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,578

    Thanks guys for the responses. The model is 22187. Its a Toro 21" commercial walkbehind, has 3 gears. Engine is 6hp Kaw, FJ180V. Bought this year in May.
     
  5. All_Toro_4ME

    All_Toro_4ME LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,578

    I believe he just greased the zerks. I will double check.
     
  6. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 11,024

    OK,

    Everyone that has posted here came up with every possible cause for this jumping problem.

    You say you changed the gear pinions, When you did this did you look closely at the top edge of the axle keys ?

    The square edge could be rounded off enough to cause them to jump out of the gear pinions thus jumping.

    Did you make sure the springs were not weak (pushing the key up) or there was no sand etc in the axle key groove causing the keys to hang up ?


    [​IMG]



    Again, With everything that has been posted with the above added, If this unit still jumps the only thing left is possibly one of the two shift keys inside the trans is broken and there's too much pressure on the one key to keep it in gear.

    Also, I think it's a :cry: shame that you have to get on a site to get help to work on your own NEW mower.

    If I were you, I would print the informative post out and take them by your dealer.

    Maybe their *cough cough* service department can learn how to work on the equipment they sell. :dizzy:

    BTW, A broken shift key would be covered under warranty......
     
  7. All_Toro_4ME

    All_Toro_4ME LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,578

    Thanks Restrorob. I printed this forum out and did the checks myself on the cable adjustment. I followed the directions step by step, and transmission (gear 3) seems to be working like a charm now, so my guess is thats what it was, the cable. Didnt think it needed to be adjusted this quick though. Thanks guys for all your help.
     
  8. dutch1

    dutch1 LawnSite Silver Member
    from Jayhawk
    Posts: 2,231

    I was mistaken to chime in before I knew what the model # was as I thought that some of the commercials had the same axle/key engagement as the homeowner stuff. The information may prove helpful with anyone with the clutch/friction washer arrangement.

    Dutch
     

Share This Page