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Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Squirter, Mar 4, 2011.

  1. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 12,215

    Don't skip the crabgrass control. It should be dissipated enough as to not interfere with seeding in late summer or fall. (When temps fall below 85.) And be sure to research the top quality most disease resistant types of grass you can find. Silver Dollar Perennial rye is my current favorite.
    I feel that as long as you water-in your fert--the suction bagging system should not remove much of the applied fert.
    Good luck and let us know what happens.

    Like Tombo, I am thinking that high nitrogen, during hot humid weather might stimulate disease. This is particularly a problem with brown patch on tall fescue in the upper south.
  2. ChiTownAmateur

    ChiTownAmateur LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 386

    Once you decide upon the grass you like best, if you overseed it each Fall after dethatching and aerating you will soon have a lawn that is consistent without the mottled look.

    For fert, a few tips you may already know:
    1) The 50/50 rule...go N/S across the entire lawn with half the fert, then go E/W with the other half
    2) For bigger lawns some people split it into say 4 quarters, and do one at a time. If you follow the 50/50 rule with quarters, you'll know quickly if the setting is right...if it isn't since you only used half of what you need, you can quickly adjust. By the 2nd or 3rd quarter, it will be perfect, and all future apps will already have the perfect setting in place

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