Installed a new 900 watt jefferson electric trans from copper moon. Joy Shumate (Copper moon Owner Doug's sister ) was extremly helpful and shipped out the trans the same day on Fedex. Not Joy's fault, but Fedex tracking quoted me shipped in 2 days from Georgia, then 3, then finally 4. also some superflex 12 guage ordered at the same time came the following 5th day. Thought I'd go through the pro's and cons, similar to my review of the new Volt trans I put in a month or so ago. This was a lightning damaged replacement of Ryco unit, and I will revive that thread to update. Pro's- 1 Nice looking and heavy guage stainless cabinet. nice thick sides, back. 2 Bottom comes installed, removable, large plastic and several smaller stainless knockouts. cons below 3 door is removable with a lift, UL listing and diagram on label, cons below 4 Lugs handle 6 12 guage wires max with patience, postitive block lugs, no guessing. big con below. 5 Nice 6 foot cord is plenty long to reach outlet nearby, but con below. 6 3 circuit breaker type switches, rated at 25 amps each can be reset. 7 included photo-cell loop allows measurement of 120v amps, plus can just bypass photocell for testing, faster than just using cap over photo-cell. 8 purchased seperate photo-cell aims and just plugs in, and comes with above mentioned cap, but con below. 9 was boxed and insulated well for shipping, but cord related shipping issue below 10 mounting the unit was very easy. use the supplied "male" bracket and mount to wall securely, and then hang trans on wall using matching female bracket on trans. no complicated, needs to be perfect keyholes. I like this. 11 no hum or perceptable heat that I could tell after an hour at about 80 degrees on install day. 12 pricewise this unit is slightly higher than Ryco or Volt, but less than FX or Nightscaping. cons- 1- Bottom takes 6 screws to remove and 2 did not want to come out, as the threads do not go all the way to the top of the screw head. further, you must remove the trans from the wall to reinstall bottom, as 2 of the screws face back. 2- Bottom and Door have very sharp edges. I cannot reccomend working around them without gloves. There were many shavings from the Low voltage wire when threaded through the larger knock out. 3- vinyl door label does not like ball point or gel pens. I ended up using a fine tip marker, but it smears unless you blow on it. I'm sure a roller ball or something works better, but I only had 3 types of pens with me. 4- lugs were not labeled and it is backwards from Volt, Ryco and FX that I am used to. From left to right, 15V-12V, then commons 1,2,3. Not labeling is unacceptable. Further, and maybe this is just a Dave thing, This is the first trans I can remember seeing the wires just in open air that feed the lugs themselves, as there is a 1/2 inch gap between the bank of lugs and the trans body. some of those wires had exposed ends. It really makes this look more like a hand built proto type than a finished product. 5- since the edges of the bottom is sharp, there is a plasic grommet to protect the 120v cord it as it goes through the bottom. however, during shipping, the cord is laid inside and zip-tied, and the stainless cut through the outer insulation of the overall black jacket, and inner insulation of the green ground wire. luckily the black and white were secure, so I heat-shrink tubed it and moved on. again, unacceptable. 6- Space is fairly tight and I'm pretty sure since there is a plastic plug to allow for a 4th circuit breaker, that this is the same cabinet for a 1200 watt trans. I was already at 6 wires on the 13 and 5 on the 14 volt lug, So I would need bigger lugs or more of them. 7- More voltage drop than I am used to. unloaded at 120.8 volts from outlet the readings- 12v- is 12.06, 13v - 12.9, 14v- 13.9 and 15v 14.5. Loaded with 20,20.1 and 17 amps on the 3 commons , 12v-11.1, 13v- 12.2, 14v 12.8, 15v 13.4. The 15v only had one wire on it and the 13 and 14 had 6 and 5, I needed to go back and redo some taps as the original Ryco had higher outputs at some taps loaded. 8-The 120v loop was at 7 amps, or 840 watts going into the trans, and 57.8 amps going out at an average of 12.3 volts at lugs, or 711 watts out. The label rates the 120 volt side at 9 amps max, which would be 1080 watts in, and using math of 711out/840in, or 85% efficiency, then 85% of 1080 would be a 918 watt trans. Given the loaded voltage at the taps, though, I won't be adding any load to this unit anytime soon. If this is a 900 watt trans, 711 watts out of a 900 watt trans is 79% load anyway. 9. photocell came with one star-nut and 3 prong plastic plug, so to install, you patiently remove the starnut around the plastic plug in, which it really does not want to come through there, so it takes time, then thread the plug through knockout and push plug though starnut again, which is hard again, tighten from inside, and plug in. what has taken me a minute or less in the past on other trans took 5-7 minutes on this one. I know this is a new unit for coppermoon, and perhaps some of these things will be worked out over time. Speaking with Joy the other day I am confident they are working everyday to improve just about all items they sell. I will probably try another coppermoon trans in 6 months or so and see if any issues above are still present or have been addressed.