crabgrass preemergent and seeding

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by pratok69, Mar 14, 2005.

  1. pratok69

    pratok69 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 1

    hi all, i have seeded a new lawn last year with tall fescue. i first verticut very thoroughly to loosen and help remove some of the crabgrass present. this year i want to overseed with fescue( watersaver w/ RTF) to fill bare spots and generally thicken. most crabgrass applications require 3-4 mos before seeding. this puts me into june. not an ideal time in kansas to seed. what are my options?
     
  2. Jason Rose

    Jason Rose LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,858

    Tupersan, Its a preemergent that can be used when seeding a new lawn or overseeding in the spring. It's usually available thru garden centers or places that sell ferti-lome and high-yeild products (not discount stores). Usually the tupersan has a starter fertilizer in it too. It only lasts about 30 to 45 days though, but at that time your new grass should be germinated and up enough to be able to apply a regular preemergent. Try to stick with Demension or Pendemethiln (sp?) and steer away from Barricade. Barricade, while its a great product, will root prune new grass more than others will and should best be avoided in this situation.

    I think there is a couple other preemergents out there that work with seeding a new lawn in the spring, I'm unsure of their availabity though expecialy to a homeowner. Sidurion comes to mind, I THINK that's another one, but I'm not 100% sure if I remember that right...

    Hope this helps, i'm sure there will be others along that either agree with me or will call me an idiot...
     
  3. Grassmechanic

    Grassmechanic LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,697

    ....or you could just go ahead and re-seed the areas that are bare. Then later when the crabgrass appears, hit it with a post emergent for crab, such as Acclaim.
     
  4. TScapes

    TScapes LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 453

    I agree with Jason, regarding trying to find a chemical approach that will allow you to do both. However, not being able to see your lawn's general condition, this is all a "Blind Diagnosis". Personally, I feel that if you have a yard that has over 85% coverage now (meaning not very many bare spots) then I would just go ahead and seed NOW, then do a pre-m application after the new seed has grown enough to mow. If you seeded last year and had a successful return, with just a few bare or thin areas hear and there, I think this is the way to go. I would rent a "Slit-seeder" and go ahead and seed as soon as you can. Make sure that you go over your yard in a "Cross" pattern, this will ensure you a higher percentage of return. Then apply a starter fertilizer to help with root development. Once the new seedlings are up to 3-4" and mowing is necessary, go ahead and mow, but be sure to mow at your highest setting. After mowing the new grass a second time, go ahead and apply a pre-m product. While this will be later in the Spring, it may still be early enough (depending upon your soil temps) to hopefully catch the later developing crabgrass. In my mind, some protection is better than no protection. Besides, you can always use chemicals to treat the crabgrass once it has emerged.
    Good LUCK!
     
  5. ThreeWide

    ThreeWide LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,116


    Not to nit pick here...but this is not accurate information on pre-emergents. Pendimethaln is actually one of the worst pre-emergents with regards to root pruning. Barricade was shown to do less root pruning than both Pendimethalin and Dimension. This is why Barricade is a popular choice for pros. Ronstar does no root pruning at all, but is not labled for residential lawns.

    Photos of turf roots in all of these scenarios have been published on various university sites.
     

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