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Crabgrass Yard

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by SprayGreenGuy, Aug 14, 2008.

  1. SprayGreenGuy

    SprayGreenGuy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    I just moved into this rental house with a yard with 98% crabgrass. I am trying to find a inexpensive way to battle it. I am in northern mississippi. I just overseeded with slit seeder and core aerated it, and. I was wondering if I should put some weed a feed on it now. Or should I wait and put preemergence on it during feb. There is not much real grass out there now. I just overseeded with bermuda the other day to try and get a few strands of real grass out there. Its a small yard so it dont cost much to seed. And I have siltseeders and core aerators I can use. I work for spraygreens.

    Any Suggestions??????
  2. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,720

    I don't know the timing for Mississippi seeding, but it seems to me that you're swimming upstream right now.

    Why don't you wait until it all starts to turn purple and die naturally, before you get serious about trying to get bermuda (or whatever) to compete with it.

    A know you're a lot further south than me, but all crabgrass is an annual plant, so thus it has to die SOMETIME, right?!?
  3. SprayGreenGuy

    SprayGreenGuy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    thats what i was asking. So you think I should let it die and then put preemergance on the lawn around feb or march before the crabgrass germinates again.
  4. Richard Martin

    Richard Martin LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 14,700

    I'm guessing SprayGreens is some sort of fert comapny? One would think that you would already know what to do but anyway...

    Kill the entire yard with glyphosate right now. It's getting a little late in the year to get good results from warm season grasses but you can always try. Mix up a 50-50 mix of annual rye and Burmuda and slit seed your yard in 2 directions. One direction should be back and forth and the second direction should be at a 45 degree angle to the first direction. Hit it with some starter fert and lots of water. After about 6 weeks hit your whole yard with Pre-em. Next Spring hit the yard again with Pre-em just as the Forsythia starts to bloom. If you want to do it the scientific way then wait until the soil averages about 55 degrees and hit it with Pre-em. 8 weeks after you hit it with Pre-em in the Spring hit it again. I know it's a lot of Pre-em but you have to deal with crabgrass very aggressively. Next Fall do it all over again. Repeat until you get the desired results.
  5. ALC-GregH

    ALC-GregH LawnSite Fanatic
    from PA
    Posts: 7,053

  6. dura to the max

    dura to the max LawnSite Silver Member
    from georgia
    Posts: 2,246

    my thoughts exactly.

    you could also use MSMA on crabgrass. according to my understanding it would take about 3-4 apps. then use the pre-emergent in the spring
  7. SprayGreenGuy

    SprayGreenGuy LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    Thanks but you don't have to smash me when I ask a question. You can just answer. Ask any moderator for the site they would rather you not answer, then put some one down for asking something. If people getting made fun of for asking questions they will stop coming to the site to learn. I just started with spraygreens a month ago. We only do organtic ferterlizing not complete renivations. Thats why I joined this site was to learn. Thanks for the infomation though.
  8. Richard Martin

    Richard Martin LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 14,700

    Hey, if I wanted to just beat you up I would have only done that. I just found it odd that you work for a fert company and ask these kinds of questions. Don't take it personal.
  9. dura to the max

    dura to the max LawnSite Silver Member
    from georgia
    Posts: 2,246

    thats lawn site for you. you gotta have tough skin. EVERYONE gets the crap from other members, even the big names that everyone know such as topsites. it was a little odd that you asked what you did after saying what you do for a living. nothing personal.
  10. brucec32

    brucec32 LawnSite Platinum Member
    Posts: 4,403

    Be fair guys, employees of squirt-ferts don't have to know all this, they just have to be able to properly apply what the boss says to and identify some basic lawn problems. They only train them so far. If they knew every facet of it they would become competitors rather than employees.

    As far as seeding Bermuda, I was considering the same for my Tall Fescue lawn that has summer-health problems so that I can actually have a nice lawn during summer. I'm willing to put up with dormancy in the winter. I also want a test bed for mowing techniques and machines and this is the only way short of mowing someone's lawn for free all year. My plan is to reseed with fescue and have a nice winter lawn Nov-May, then mow it low and aerate/slit seed it in June when the Fescue starts to look bad anyway and hopefully transition it over the summer and fully by the next spring, killing the remaining fescue over winter.

    It is a little late to be seeding the lawn with Bermuda, since it will just be coming up when cooler temps arrive and shut it down. For that reason I would NOT kill any existing crabgrass (more likely perennial grassy weeds that look like crabgrass mixed in too). It will go dormant and look pretty much like the dormant bermuda stems would anyway. If you kill it now it will deteriorate and you may have a nice mud lawn this winter.

    Mid winter when the Bermuda is surely dormant, you may want to selectively spray any grass that is obviously neither bermuda nor crabgrass with glyphsate.

    You should have enough growing weeks (read the package) to be able to apply pre-emergent in late winter. Then hit anything that comes up green that isn't Bermuda with the appropriate post-emergents.

    With luck your Bermuda will get lots of rain and start to resemble a real lawn by midsummer next year. I think the success of this tactic depends on getting enough rain to help the Bermuda get started.

    I had a customer who killed his weedpatch lawn (almost a full acre of it!) in March and sowed Bermuda. Along with a few patches of old Bermuda existing he had a pretty decent common bermuda lawn by the end of the summer and a year later it was nearly perfect. But he had good soil and hammered it with water as needed using portable sprinklers, which was a lot of work.

    I may be missing something here. I'm doing it off the cuff. But I think it will work and is more desireable than a lawn full of tall fast growing weeds.

    Just mow the weeds low now and that inhibits their growth a bit. The bermuda can of course handle low mowing. Good luck.

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