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Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by whatyouare, Mar 18, 2009.

  1. whatyouare

    whatyouare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    Ok, I've done my share of searches on how to prevent/get rid of crab grass. I'm going to use a pre-emergent herbicide (scott's brand).

    My problem is this: I have one very large spot in my yard that has a lot of crabgrass. We're not talking a couple little patches, we're talking maybe 15 square feet or so, if added up total, of dead crabgrass at the moment.

    If I apply the herbicide and successfully keep the crabgrass from growing again this year, I will have these big bare, dead crabgrass spots. That's not desireable. The herbicide states that you should not seed or sod for 3-4 months after applying. So, the option is not there to apply the herbicide to prevent crabgrass from thriving again and then replacing the dead area with seed/sod after the fact.

    My other plan was to rip up the section of yard that holds these big patches, lay down sod, and apply the herbicide to the rest of the lawn. I'm just not sure if that's the best solution, and it's a lot of work, so I'm looking for advice before I take any action.

    Any help is appreciated! (yes, I'm a lawn newbie, I didn't even know what crabgrass was as it was running rampant in my yard last summer)
  2. AmGreen

    AmGreen LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 319

    Your best bet would be to find a good licensed company/individual in your area to come out and do what you need done (At least from the treatment standpoint). My guess is, it would be cheaper or comparable to have it done by them then it would be for you to go out and buy the product yourself. Plus, the likelihood of it being done correctly would be higher if someone licensed did it.

    As far as the limitation of over-seeding/sodding - there are products available that allow you to seed while still retaining the pre-emergent aspect of control. This would be where a local professional would step in...
  3. mngrassguy

    mngrassguy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,167

    Good point AmGreen. One word of caution, DON'T hire a big National Company. They will NEVER leave you alone. Look for a small local company that can give you an individualized service. They will help you with seeding suggestions too.

    If you insist on doing it yourself, look for a product made by Scott's called "starter fert with crabgrass control". It contains "Tupersan" which is safe for seed. It's also quite spendy.

    Here in Minnesota, it gets too hot and too dry, too quick in the spring for seed to take. I can't imagine Missouri is any different. If it were my lawn, I would apply a normal pre now and seed in the early fall (late August). You never know, maybe those areas may "fill in" on their own and won't even any need seeding.
  4. White Gardens

    White Gardens LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,776

    Last edited: Mar 18, 2009
  5. Rusty Hook

    Rusty Hook LawnSite Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 43

    Could be coarse fescue. A lot of new people confuse it with crabgrass. I don't
    care what you put down. If it is a large bare area in full sun, you will most likely have break through. If it is full sun here in the midwest I would recommend you sod the area. This would be a quick fix.
  6. Rusty Hook

    Rusty Hook LawnSite Member
    from Midwest
    Posts: 43

    Also if you were to seed you would still have cg issues. You would not want to use a pre emergent. And you would have weed issues, because you would not be able to put any weed control down until the new grass is established.
  7. whatyouare

    whatyouare LawnSite Member
    Posts: 2

    Definitely crabgrass. Nasty stuff.

    Thanks for your replies. I've entertained the thought of hiring someone to do it, but I've managed to do all yard work including a bit of landscaping myself up to this point. But this may be a good time to call in the pro's.
  8. caseysbuilding

    caseysbuilding LawnSite Member
    Posts: 6

    I cant stand this stuff. I've tried for years to get rid of all of it. It seems hopeless but you just gotta stick with it.http://www.caseysbuilding.com
  9. signature lawns

    signature lawns LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 401

    If you notice the crab grass starting to go to seedheads, it would be wise to bag the clippings, or pull it by hand. as each plant is capable of thousands of seeds, and you will have the problem again next year. I've used pendimethalin (Scott's active ingredient for Pre-M) and had terrible reults. I've since Switched to Dimension (active ingredient is Dithiopyr) and have had nearly 100% success. I say nearly because the only out break I've witnessed is from customers that cut their grass way to short which heats the soil more than if the grass was taller keeping the soil cooler and less weed seeds would germinate. Good Luck
  10. How I get rid of it is I spray the crabgrass area with Roundup QuikPro. Allow it to dry or even come back the next day and spray it with Pendlum 8 ft wider in every direction from the infected spot. This enables you to catch alot of the seeds that have spread but not germinated yet. Or even to be extra safe, spray the entire lawn with Pendlum. A week or so after you spray it, I would cut it out with a sod cutter (or did it out with a shovel ) and place all the crabgrass in a black garbage bag. Then you can go right ahead and lay new sod.

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