Cutting SRW caps

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by GreenMonster, Nov 4, 2004.

  1. GreenMonster

    GreenMonster LawnSite Silver Member
    from NH
    Posts: 2,702

    Ok Pros,

    Share with me YOUR technique for cutting caps on curves. Obviously, I have my way of doing it -- which I will share later. I don't want to skew any responses by explaining my way right now.

    I'm just curious if I'm doing it as effeciently and cleanly as possible.
  2. jd boy

    jd boy LawnSite Member
    from nw ohio
    Posts: 179


    our method- not very scientific. simply begin placing caps on wall. we then just overlay one cap on the one before it to get the necessary curve. once it is in place we can mark the angle on the lower stone to get an exact mark.

    No measuring, no figuring angles, just accurate cuts. We cut with a partner saw. It's loud & messy, but fast.
  3. NNJLandman

    NNJLandman LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,306

    Put your cap on the wall, and line it up on the curve to how you would want to position it. Measure the gap between the previous cap and this one. Measure that out on the cap that needs to be fitted, make your self a straight line to the corner oposite the measurement mark and make your cut. Thats how we do it. Good Luck

  4. jwholden

    jwholden LawnSite Member
    from CT
    Posts: 218

    Lay a piece of coping so it touches the one already cut before it. Take your level and place it paralell and touching the block that is already set. Make sure the level is wider than the gap between the two pieces of coping. If the gap is too wide lay the level on it's side (your using your level as a marking tool, not a level). Run a line along the edge of the level on the piece of coping to be cut and cut it. Using this method there is NO MEASURING INVOLVED.
  5. ZX12R

    ZX12R LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 785

    I simply place the cap to be cut next to the cap already on the wall,look at the speace between the two caps and mark line with a right angle measuring.
  6. activelandscaping

    activelandscaping LawnSite Member
    Posts: 241

    I use a T-bevel.

  7. D Felix

    D Felix LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,898

    I've only had to cut caps once, that was actually two weeks ago.... Similiar to how jd_boy describes.... This method works well for Versa-lok caps, since there are two kinds; A's and B's. Both are 14" on the face, A's are 12" on the back, B's are 16" on the back.

    For outside curves: when you need to cut a cap, lay an A cap next to the last full cap as a spacer. Then butt another cap against the first A. Take out the A, put a B down on top of the two A's, line it up, mark along the bottom edge of the B onto the A's. Cut the A's. This method eliminates ANY measuring.

    For inside curves, the method is similiar, but you have to play around a little to get the caps spaced.

    I was using a permanent marker to mark the cuts, so it is very important that you mark along the bottom of the cap you've set on top. If you mark the cap that is set on top, mark it with a pencil, flip it over and then mark it with a marker. Otherwise you will end up with marker showing on adjacent blocks....

    One thing that we found out (it's a "d'oh" if there ever was one) is that you can easily make A caps out of B caps, so order equal amounts of both! The book says to order more A's for outside curves, and more B's for inside curves, but you will invariably end up needing to cut caps so just order equal numbers.

    So, Mark, how do you cut caps?

  8. GreenMonster

    GreenMonster LawnSite Silver Member
    from NH
    Posts: 2,702

    Well, there is certainly no science involved with my process either. I would say my method is most similar to jwholden and/or nnjlandman. I also use the level trick like jwholden. Tape might be used when the cut is wider than the level. A lot of times I just eyeball that anyhow, and this is why:

    The problem I have is I mostly use Allan Block. The caps come up to a lip on the block. So, after you make your cut and you slide you cap against the previous one, your cut may be off a little, as the front edge of the cap travels a larger radius than the back edge of the cap, in order to meet up flush. Confused? Think of it this way: On wall stones with no lip, there can be a little error -- one side of the cap may stick out a hair more, but you really won't notice it. On Allan Block, the wall stone lip restricts the cap movement to the front, so the error show up on the side, where it meets the other cap.

    I guess what I'm trying to say is that with my method, most often on a cut with a fairly steep angle, it often takes two cuts to get it right. Kinda like two-putting from the fringe -- first put gets you close, second one in the hole. I don't like two putting with a diamond blade cut-off saw :(
  9. YardPro

    YardPro LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,563

    here's how i do it.

    i slide the new block up to the last one that has been cut/placed or whatever.
    i use an old caliper to measure the distance on the side with the gap (back on concave rad. front on convex). i don't worry about the number, i just use calipers becuace they will retain the distance. i then go to the touching side and mark that distance in. I use a 12 framing square to draw a line from the edge of the corner with the gap to the line on the opposite side.

    sounds complicated, but in application it's easy and perfectly accurate.

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