cycle stop question

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by greenmonster304, Aug 7, 2010.

  1. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 47,005

    The brass ones will have the same sort of losses a PRV will have, so you need the headroom to work with it.
     
  2. greenmonster304

    greenmonster304 LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,049

    had the guy who built the house knew what he was doing he would have but he was a know it all jerk who said "I had them put in a big pump for the geothermal". But he was an idiot because even with the two airhandlers on at once they only use about 14 gpm. He sold the house now the new owners cant sleep with the water hammer and pump cycling. they told me they had to shut it off last night so they could sleep
     
  3. Sprinkus

    Sprinkus LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,083

    Use CSV1Z for 1-25 gpm. The CSV2W does 5-50 gpm.
    Make sure and look at both pressure loss charts because they are additive.
    I'd probably use the CSV2W for this application, unless the irrigation zones are very small.
     
  4. txgrassguy

    txgrassguy LawnSite Gold Member
    Posts: 3,083

    I have installed several plastic cycle stop valves and haven't had one leak yet.
    The Cla-valve works well with higher volumes too but are also costly.
    Pitch the plastic cycle stop with the idea it isn't as costly and is more of an experiment to determine compatibility - or replace the pump with one correctly sized for the application.
    I just thought of something else, is there anyway to plumb in a pressure relief valve back to the well? This would temporarily correct the bulk of the water hammer issues.
     

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