Dead zone .. new valve ... still dead

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by PLM-1, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. PLM-1

    PLM-1 LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,640

    I am by no means an expert or full time irrigator, however, i can usually fix and install most systems.

    This one has me stumped on my parents system, thank god it's there! There were a few zones not coming on so I rebuilt the valves. The number 4 zone which only feeds 3 heads still didn't work. I decided just to put a new valve in thinking that HAS to be the problem. There IS water to the valve as I can hear it when I turn the supply on 3 feet from it. I can open the bleed and water comes out as well as the solenoid. However, turning the valve on manually or with the controller yields a dead zone. With the valve manually open the water meter isn't running, so I don't believe there is a leak nor do any pools accumulate anywhere. The length from the valve to the first head is only about 20 feet. The only thing I can think of to cause this is that maybe the adapters are too tight blocking the exit on the valve. Any advice?
  2. ontheedge02

    ontheedge02 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 8

    You didn't by chance put the valve in backwards, or have the flow control turned off? Just simple stuff, but it's easy to overlook.

    Good Luck
  3. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Remove the solenoid, and stick a marking flag down the vent port. If its a slip valve, you probably clogged it with glue.

    If that doesn't work, open the output side and see if you get water, you could have a weird air bubble in the line messing with the diaphragm, or you could have a bad clog in the zone.
  4. Ferti-man

    Ferti-man LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 252

    Of course there is the off chance that there is an electrical issue. Wire at controller, controller malfunction, Need to verify 24 volts to solenoid. I like the backwards install, but since it did not work before, electrical should be considered.
  5. When you install a valve backwards it does not shut....test electrical ....put one lead of a multitester on the zone wire in question, disconnect the common (ie common field wire not power) from your controller and put the other lead from the multi tester on the disconnected common and report back your ohms....
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    He is saying the manual bleed doesn't work either.

    I'd still check the electrical, but I have a hunch thats not it.
  7. I understand that but the first thing I check when a valve will not open is the electrical...with either a multimeter or a station master...get the electrical figured out then move onto the next thing ie: like your suggestion of "Remove the solenoid, and stick a marking flag down the vent port". Debris in the port hole would not allow the solenoid to activate the valve...if the manual bleed does not open the valve then the diaphragm itself has a problem....
    What kind of valve are we dealing with would also be helpfull!!!
  8. Ferti-man

    Ferti-man LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 252

    Interesting that the bleed opens and water comes out yet no flow to zone. He mentioned no flow on water meter, but they click after so many gallons, a hundred around my area. You should be able to hear the flow though if there is a lateral line break. What kind of valve is installed, model # please? Is it a glue in valve or a thread in type? Globe or Angle?
  9. After you do all that SHORTEN YOUR ANNOYING SIGNATURE. What is the deal with you mowing people. Is equipment your phallic symbol?
  10. bobw

    bobw LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 807

    Any chance that the system didn't get drained for the winter and that the water in the line is frozen? Seems a bit unlikely where you are, but somewhat common around here.

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