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Discussion in 'Tractors' started by muddstopper, Aug 31, 2005.
The injector fixed the smoke and power problems. The radiator cap was bad letting the water spew out the over flow but didnt seal well enough to pull water back from the little overflow jug. Problems fixed for now.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions from Jon and everyone else.
Another way to find which injector isnt firing correct is to use an infared heat gun. Test the exhaust at each cyclinder at the head and the one that isnt firing is gonna be 20 - 30 degrees colder. Before that we used to run the engines and grab ahold of the manifolds and test by hand, that was on the 855 big cam cummins.
loosening a fuel line is cheaper than buying a infrared heat detector and a lot easier on the hands than grabbing a hot manifold.
Actually the heat temp gun is less than a 100 bux. It can be used to check the opening temps of thermostats, and even the temp of wheel bearings, it can be a good little diagnostic tool. Also to check the mainfolds by hand, start feeling them soon as the engine fires and which ever 1 you can hold on too will be the bad one. The proper firing ones will soon get too hot to hold on too but most of the time it is that noticeable that you can still touch all of them . The one that is miss firing just never changes temp from the start
What you said makes sense, if's it not fireing it shouldnt get as hot as the ones that are fireing. Just use common sense before grabbing a hot manifold. I dont know if I have a need for a heat detector, or not enought to warrant the cost. The one thing I do wish I coud find at a reasonable price is a handhelt Tack for checking shaft speeds. If you know where a good one is for $100 bucks let me know. I am always trying to figure how fast I am turning a specific jack shaft, different attachments take different speeds, and always end up guessing about the gearing.