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Dig batt opps

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by sheshovel, Jul 9, 2005.

  1. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    I don't know if any of you are familiar with "Dig" products but I have some customers that have existing drip irrigation hooked up with Dig battery operated controllers on top of the valve they have a sylionoid that screws into where the normal one screws in and the controller sets on top of that.
    Well,have a lady had a leak there where they screw onn and also controller wont work(2-9V batts)
    So buy another controller and install it and try it out.!st try it clicks and runs water.I manualy (from comtroller) shut it back off..then it clicks but water wont come thru it.
    Unscrew it and turn on the main a little-water comes out of the top of where I unscrewd
    the sylinoid.
    So OK I have water,put back on and try to run it ,clicks on and off but no water thru the line water main is back on.
    What could possibly do this?
    It's a 97.00 brand new controller and the sylinoid clicks and I say the valve is OK cus water comes out the top.
    My problem has to be the valve am I correct?Even if the valve opened and closed before??
  2. jerryrwm

    jerryrwm LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,274

    Were you able to get the valve to operate manually - with the bleed screw or by loosening the solenoid? There may be trash in the exhaust ports - even with water coming out.

    You may also have a bad diaphragm.

    Also, make sure that the actuator is in the fully 'latched' position. It may click when power is applied, but it needs to be fully up to operate. Remove the solenoid, and then activate the controller to make sure the actuator is fully retracted into the solenoid. Also make sure the actuator rubber seat is not loose or extended which will keep the exhaust port closed.

  3. Why did you change it?

    The controller is just a controller...if the valve is bad, then the valve is bad. Just because the batteries are dead and the valve isn't operating..that doesn't mean the controller was bad....sheesh.

    No offense sheshovel..... but it is SOLENOID......
  4. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    These controllers don't normally go bad, so my first question would be the same as sprinklerguy. Did you put in a fresh battery? Second, did you manually operate the valve? Sounds like a valve problem, not a solenoid problem. Next, the new controller/solenoid, is it exactly the same as the old one? New RB/Irritrol/etc. solenoids are the same as the old ones except for the plastic keeper on the bottom. In some older valves, that keeper is enough to prevent the operation of the valve. If you remove it, you have a working plunger again. Are you missing an o-ring and have screwed the solenoid/controller on to tight? The BOCs work, but you have to have everything set up correctly. DC solenoids are even more picky than regular AC solenoids.
    Good Luck
  5. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    Whatta ya think I'm stupid or something sprinklerguy?I was in a hurry and spelled it wrong twice so beat me up...I do take offence at that.I don't replace something unless it's broke and I know how to find out if it is broke.OK?
    YES 1st thing I did was replace the batts and the old controller had been handled so much that the wire- cover was worn away where it goes into the SOLENOID(stupid way to spell that word anyway)
    and the wires inside had worn off their coatings in a few places and obviously they were touching each other with bare wires and I did not get any kind of readout so obviosly the controller fried itself with the batts.
    I did use the new actuator in the old valve and possibly that and or the o ring are the problem.No when i take off the SOLENOID and turn on the valve with the manual screw water does not go into the line cuz it comes out of the SOLENOID hole.
  6. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    If you removed the solenoid w/ the system ON, your valve either opened or it is shot. No other options here. If you got water out of the solenoid and the bleed screw and the valve didn't open your diaphragm is stuck closed. If opening the bleed screw makes the valve work, but removing the solenoid doesn't, the your solenoid exhaust port is blocked. The bleed screw and the solenoid both offer points to bleed the water off of the top of the valve diaphragm which allows the diaphragm to "float" and the valve to open. If you have water porting off the diaphragm and the diaphragm doesn't open, the diaphragm/valve is bad.

    P.S. my spelling is as bad or worse than anyone I know, but that button down there next to the submit says spell check, and it is a lot smarter than me :)
  7. make it easy on yourself sheshovel...just call it a coil like most of us old-timers.
  8. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    Hmmmmmmmmmm, then is it a 24v or 36v coil? wow I'm feeling OLD today.
  9. sheshovel

    sheshovel LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 5,112

    OK gottcha now thanks for the help you guys are the best!!
    Hey sprinklerguy did you know that on both pgs of your website there is writing partialy blocked off from reading with a flag and on the nxt pg a few pics?You might wanna check it out.like it says blablabla..pic in the way... blablabla
    Thought I'd give you the heads up on it.
  10. Thanks for the heads up she...i just went through all the pages and can't find what you are talking about...tell me what pages please. thanks

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