downspout drainage question

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by jdwilliams1, Dec 5, 2001.

  1. jdwilliams1

    jdwilliams1 LawnSite Member
    Posts: 97

    I wondered if anyone might have any tips or secrets for getting 4" corregated pipe under my customers front walk, approx. 3 1/2' wide. I have a trencher but need to get under this concrete walk in two locations. Any other advice would be great as well.
     
  2. strickdad

    strickdad LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 544

    they will more than likley move this thread to landscape foroum... if you can i would use a power augar to do this .. you will have to dig down a little to get proper angle but it should work fine..
     
  3. AVRECON

    AVRECON LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 290

    Talk to someone you know that does irrigation. They should have a nozzle that you use on pvc to blast through with water.
     
  4. I don't know what the soil is like in INdiana, but blast through with water will work but the size hole that you need may be a problem. Too much water boring will cause the sidewalk to settle, that may not be good!

    We go under walks with water and also sometimes we dig on both sides as far as we can go and then pound a 2" piece of galvanized pipe through a couple of times to crreate a tunnel. Try that./
     
  5. conepile

    conepile LawnSite Member
    Posts: 78

    You can pound a galvanized or PVC pipe through the pea gravel base (if you are lucky enough for gravel). There are various boring techniques as well, from water boring tools to mechanical augers that mount to the front of some pipe pullers. Four inch is big though, and I'm not aware of any methods that don't involve some measure of pain or especially time.
     
  6. Lanelle

    Lanelle LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,361

    Consider using a pipe under the sidewalk portion that is rigid. This could be pvc or the lined corregated ADS pipe. The reason to consider it is that it will be easier to clean out if a clog occurs and it is more resistant to crushing which could occur if the walkway settles or the pipe is near the soil surface. The methods previously described will work.
     
  7. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,969

    I went under my walk with a post hole shovel, then packed dirt back in around the tile.
     
  8. SCAPEASAURUSREX

    SCAPEASAURUSREX LawnSite Senior Member
    Posts: 835

    ?? Couldnt' you just cut out those sections of concrete and replace them later once the pipe is laid.. Or maybe what about cutting the concrete at the expansion joints and lifting up the section with a skid steer or something , laying in the pipe and then lay the section back in ??? Just a thought.. Never done it myself though ..
     
  9. steveair

    steveair LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,073

    hello,

    a shovel, a spud bar (6 ft metal bar), a sledge hammer, and lot of elbow grease.

    Dig big holes on each side, giving yourself enough clearce for the bar to go in. Once you get the bar across a few times, try using schedule 40 pipe and a sledge.

    3 1/2 feet isn't going to be all that bad. There are machines out there, but the amount of effort to find one or the cost of renting one is going to outweigh the few hours of time it is going to take you.

    It's not all that bad.............

    steve
     
  10. 1grnlwn

    1grnlwn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Posts: 1,261

    Ooh Ooh I know the answer.

    Get a 4 ft long ground anchor with a 2" or 2 1/2" auger on the end. Cut the loop off the end and chuch it in 1/2 drill. Drill under walk. You can enlarge hole slightly with shovel or hand if needed. I used 2 1/2 pvc with reducers 4" is just too big a hole.
     

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