Drip Irrigation Supply Co. (Disco)

Discussion in 'Irrigation' started by DGI, Jul 31, 2005.

  1. DGI

    DGI LawnSite Member
    from SE Mich
    Posts: 173

    Anyone know why they went out of business? Best swing pipe ever (disco relaxo) as far as I'm concerned. I've switched to Toro and the fitters hate it, but it's better than rainbird and everything else I've tried.

    Any information at all. Just curious.
     
  2. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Have you tried hunter HFT-100?

    Its stiff, but not as stiff as the Toro funny pipe IMHO.

    The only thing I find funny is that it says "kink resistant" on the tubing, but it takes no more effort to kink it than any other brand of swing pipe.
     
  3. sps2868

    sps2868 LawnSite Member
    from ATL, GA
    Posts: 91

    Have you tried the RB Sp100flex yet???? We found it last year it is much more supple than anything else we have seen or tried..

    Comes in a white plastic wrap and says FLEX on it. Try some if you see it.
     
  4. Wet_Boots

    Wet_Boots LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 48,014

    Maybe it (Drip Irrigation Supply Company) was a victim of high material costs.

    Then again, any company with 'disco' as a nickname may deserve to go out of business. :cool2:
     
  5. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    bought my first roll with the materials for this last install. Distributor said some of the other guys liked it better and it was a few pennies cheaper than blue stripe. I think I like it. Best part was the texture to the outside of the pipe. My young son is my helper, and he has trouble gripping blue stripe tight enough to make the connections at the heads sometimes. He handled this in fine fashion, even in mud. Time will tell though.
     
  6. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Do you use poly laterals?

    Otherwise, why don't you connect the swing pipe to the marlex before glueing the tee in? Makes it infinitely easier.
     
  7. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    Most of the time laterals are poly, but even if they weren't, I would be using class pipe and blazzing saddles, not tees. BTW, why not use glue saddles and drill them out vs. cutting in tees?
    This works for sch pipe and is a lot faster and less digging.
     
  8. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    Because you need to use a drill not a coring tool for saddles/snap tee's on SCH pipe. And I can dig a smaller hole (lengthwise) to insert a regular tee (by sliding the pipe in the ground, takes a bit of forearm strength) than for one to fit a drill, even a low profile drill.

    In decent ground, it takes less than 3-4 minutes to dig a hole, put in the tee, attach head to swing pipe and backfill.
     
  9. bicmudpuppy

    bicmudpuppy LawnSite Silver Member
    Posts: 2,781

    I'm probably just lazy, but before blazzing saddles were OK for class pipe, we used snap saddles. I used a 18" 3/8 drill bit with a piece of funny pipe over top of the bit so it couldn't drill to far. This way, you dig a hole barely big enough to see the pipe. Give yourself just enough room to primer the pipe and snap the saddle. I usually do it like an assembly line. Dig 6-10 head holes, glue saddles, then go back and drill saddles and finish setting the head. My biggest complaint about your method isn't the strength it takes to slide the pipe back, its preventing the pipe from sliding to far back. I have to have the next hole ready so I can push either from the end or the next hole to complete the fitting.
     
  10. Dirty Water

    Dirty Water LawnSite Fanatic
    Posts: 6,799

    I just don't believe that Snap-tee's are as reliable as a regular tee properly glued. I'll use one in a pinch...but only in a pinch.

    Heres what I do.

    1. Pull lateral line in
    2. Install valve, and glue lateral line into valve, therefore fixing one end of the lateral
    3. Dig out first head hole
    4. Screw marlex into a tee, attach swing pipe to marlex
    5. cut the pipe, if it slides easy, slide the pipe towards the endhole to make room for the tee. If its hard to slide, just cut out a chunk of pipe.
    6. Using IPS 725 (W/O primer) glue in a tee on the downstream from the valve side (The side that will slide, remember the other side is fixed, it wont go anywhere)
    7. Position yourself so that your pulling the sliding side (with the tee attached) towards yourself. Glue the tee and the pipe, and pull them together. The Tee makes a good handle to hold on to, and because I'm using IPS 725, theres no way I'll pull it off the tee.
    8. Attach head to swingpipe and backfill
    9. Dig next head

    If the ground is impossible to slide, I usually have an assistant tap the pipe on the far end with a rubber mallet, or I'll dig the next head hole and cut the pipe there so theres less pipe in the ground to pull.

    With one side fixed, theres no way to pull the pipe too far like you complaining about.

    Only requires a hole big enough to fit my hands around the pipe.
     

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